MG TA1932 in Germany - Blog - all problems and ...

[Steve Simmons]

The hub is not supposed to come off the halfshaft. This is supposed to be a press fit, using several tons of force. Unfortunately the hub and possibly the half shaft will need to be replaced to fix this. Roger Furneaux can supply brand new tapered axles that are much stronger than original, along with a seal kit.

There may be a burr on the other splines, so they are catching on the differential gear. I can't think of what else it could be catching on.

[Franz Tenbrock]

just found this here
not all read in the moment
seams to be the same problem
https://aanddnotes.github.io/TC4985/rea ... rAxle.html

The half shaft would pull out a few inches, but then stick. Bob Gruneau, via the mg-tabc site, told me that the TC spider differential cross has a hole in it, through which you can get a 3/8" steel rod. I only had a 1/4" rod, which bowed when I hit it. However, I found an aluminium tube to go around the 1/4" rod, which stopped it bowing, and I was able to drive out the half shaft using a 3lb lump hammer! In the photo you can see the damage to the splines on the differential end of the half shaft.

don t understand this in the moment
does it mean i can pull out the other side
put in a long steel on the other side to the end ob the half shaft which id dameged
and hammer it out ?

[Franz Tenbrock]

got an answer directly from Carl
he had the same Problem long ago
so i know what to do now

[Franz Tenbrock]

get it out with a few hammer blows
the groove looks bad

i had two half shaft somewhere in my old garage, got them with the car some years ago,
packed in fine leather bag
have to find them ;-(

but happy, now i can go on with the work

[Franz Tenbrock]

found the leather bag with the half shaft and pressed in hub inside
fits perfect right side

i think they have tried to change it but had the same problems as me
but they doesn t find a solution as me

also i found 2 more new haf shafts never used as it looks like



right side in the front cleaned, nearly ready for painting, i think tomorrow
i ordered a tompkins kit too
haven t work at the steering the last days, but have a lot of time to do it

[Franz Tenbrock]

I had some interesting days at work
will get more money in the future :thumb:

yesterday I did a little work on the steering system

cut a few mm off the brass part
pressed in the roller bearings
took some shims for the worm to adjust it and some sealing paste to avoid leakage
fitted everything and turned the steering shaft to see if everything was working properly
then I put in the felt at the top

second paint in glossy black,
got the tompkins set from Moss yesterday, last step before i can install it

[Franz Tenbrock]

Today I finished the brake line
looks wonderful
thanks to Tim Parrot who posted a pdf in mgexp.com
so I know how it is done
I already did the back a few days ago.
first i put the master cylinder in, it was a bit difficult to turn the screw in the brake pedal but it worked for the 2nd brake.
the BMC must not be screwed tight at the back, the nut there must still be loose, push the piston all the way in at the front, then it kind of works.
Then I bent the right front brake line.
The 2-way connection was loosely attached to the BMC.
then the left front through the frame
then fixed it to the 3-way connection
then the brake line from the bmc to the 3 way on the left side
first bend it 90 degrees at the 3 way
then i put it over the emergency brake and bent it 90 degrees so it can go through the bracket on the frame
after bending these two corners i pushed it through the bracket and then threaded it over the emergency brake seems difficult but goes quite well
before you do it you have to think about the way it has to go and then you can do it
then i bended the 90 degree bend on the bmc and screw everything together.

[Franz Tenbrock]

First I mounted the brake hose with the other parts
and screwed it tight
then I attached the brake cylinder to the brake plate
then the hose to the cylinder and then to the frame.
That's it
Then I mounted all the other parts of the brake.
the eccentric on the brake plate has to be loosened
At the rear brake you have to push the push rod of the rear brake shoe between the brake plate and the cylinder and then hook in the emergency brake.
all other steps are easy,
at the end i tried the exenter on all breaks

[cdrolshagen]

Good Morning Franz,

full nuts are wrong to fit the brake drum - half nts only!!!!
full nuts fouls with wire wheel

Full Nuts.JPG (34.04 KiB) Viewed 17058 times

cheers Carl

[Franz Tenbrock]

not the only thing wrong with this car ;-)
this nuts came with teh car

good that I waited to order from the Octagon Club

now all brake drums are installed
first step before installing the drums is to test the exenter
you can see work of them perfectly without the drums
close the exenter install the brake drums and it will work

also i have controlled all junctions of the break line, so it shoulkd work with the silicon break fluid

[Franz Tenbrock]

i have a little cold in the moment,
time to read a lot

today the fluid grease i had ordered arrieved, have ordered at 01.01 grrrrrr
EUROLUB 708900 Schmierfett Gearfit EP 00/000 900g

so i took my painted and assemled steering with the new sector shaft, new roller bearings and the brass tube with some modification and filled it with the fluid grease
in the last step i fixed and adjusted the tompkins set as Doug had explained it
now the steering is back in the car

also i found the adjuster for the distrubutor, was in a bag in my cellar, have bought it 2 years ago

have to read this here:
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/distributor.htm
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... r.3927266/

[Franz Tenbrock]

next small mistake
haven t marked the new sector
didn t know it
but
i have exactly two turns from left to right
so from the left to the middle is 1 turn
with this picture i hope i find the right position

that are the small things what you have to know
haven t seen the marks
there are no marks on the new one
and seen that the frame isn t paint there

i have a second steering so i can find the exactly position and make a mark on the new sector
tricky under the car, but i will do it

the red round in the picture is the direction of the arm ?

found it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGk1QorBrU8 Minute 3:12
i love the web and the information there
picture from the video of Doug

the red line is the opeing of the drop arm
the blue line is parallel to the base plate of the steering body = sector direction

[Franz Tenbrock]

When you make a mistake, you have to find another solution.
so i took the other steering and put it together
sector in the middle and drop arm in position, this one also has a punch like the drop arm
and if you look over the edge of the steering body you can see that it is the centre of the drop arm
that's how easy it is to do
left to right are two turns of the steering
the middle is one turn
like this it should be possible

read this here:
https://ttypes.org/mg-tc-steering-the-drag-link/

[Steve Simmons]

The sector shaft should be set center first, then work your way toward the wheels. Setting center is simple - just turn the steering shaft left to right and find the center point. The pitman arm then installs straight forward. After this is done, connect the wheels to the tie rod and drag link. Set the left wheel straight ahead using the drag link adjustment, then set the right wheel straight ahead using the tie rod adjustment. Lock down the drag link, and set toe-in with the tie rod adjustment. Done.

[Franz Tenbrock]

THX Steve
have a bad cold so just a few minutes in my garage in the basement
not too cold but upstairs by the fire is much better
time to read and watch videos on the web
the BMC was installed a few days ago
I wanted to put the fluid in and fill the system with my son
but nothing happens
no pumping effect from the bmc
shit
what did I do wrong
took it off, all the nuts are now easy to open
took it to the kitchen and opened it
find no fault I thought ;-)
assembled and tried the pump outside the car
nothing
goes in and out easily but no fluid where it should be
so I watched a video from Doug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HtDRHd2w97s&t=523s from min 8:40

all parts are assembled correctly
nothing happens
I took it apart again
This time I checked all the parts carefully
and found something wrong
this little rubber cap which goes in first
it wasn't all the way down, so the rim that is supposed to go into the groove at the bottom was right in the holes where the liquid has to go through
1mm less then it should be
i took a 7mm tube to press it in
the last step with the end of a 1mm dril through the liitle holes
now it works as it should


and I had been so careful when I put it in, I thought.
but the last millimetre was missing


the little things can be bad
but if you find it you are happy

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hi
waiting for Parts from the OCC for the last steps on the TA
found some parts in my garage bought some month ago
made the rod for the brake master cylinder so i will not have any problems to take it off
took all measurment from the original
took a M8 nut a m10 nut
a 14 mm round steel for the front rod
and a m10 screw for the back rod

cut it on the lathe
made a 8mm thread on one side and a 3/8 BSF on the other side
i hope it will work as it should
if not i will take the original :-)
was just for fun

[cdrolshagen]

Franz,

and what is the advantage of this joint???????????

[Franz Tenbrock]

there was a discussion in the mgexp.com forum and also once in ttypes.org
was just for fun to make it on my lathe,
waiting for parts ;-) Pastime
but it is actually easier to install
you can install the BMC completely
disconnect the connection, screw in the front part
and then put in the cotter pin

[Franz Tenbrock]

got all the parts from the Octagon Club this evening,
tomorrow after work I can continue with the car.
I hope to get it out of the basement this weekend.
the car will now have a draught excluder around the steering and teh clutch and break pedal
also i will change the old brake hose in the back
i hope all will go as i hope
some new pictures tomorrow evening i hope

[Franz Tenbrock]

Sorry,
I had some problems with the brake line,
I had done the bleeding on my own, so I didn't see that there were a few spots that weren't tight.
so i didn't have enough brake fluid and had to order some,
this morning i did the rest of the work and drove out of the basement garage,
before I drove up the ramp I let the car roll back and tested the brake, it worked perfect.
the feeling from the steering was mcuh better then before
have no insurence ni the moment so i can t drive around the block
only some corners to reach my garage outside
happy for the moment
next step will come soon