I agree with Steve. However, before you try doing that, I would suggest trying to tighten all the bolts/nuts holding the rear cover to the box. I would also thoroughly clean the area and see if the leak is actually from the speedo drive. If it is a very slight leak, it could be coming from a nut. Th...

Sounds like you will need to switch the hubs too. The left hubs and left knock-offs have right-hand-threads while the right hubs and right knock-offs have left-hand-threads. Check that fronts and rears are all correct. Being the wrong way round is very dangerous as you have witnessed. Some might won...

I have two crank handles. They both have spigots which measure very close to 16mm or .625". The strange thing is that one cross pin is 33mm long and the other is 26mm long! Maybe someone trimmed one down or they varied from the factory? Before the slimmed-down spigot bit, the handles are about 19mm ...

Thanks Steve and Duncan. I should try the 75W140 Redline. I will investigate its availability in Australia. Or maybe there is an oil here which is equivalent? I have heard differing explanations regarding synchro'. Do you know if it is friction or viscous drag, upon which our T-Type synchromesh boxe...

Someone should do a thorough study on gearbox oils for our T-Types. I don't know enough to draw conclusions, but here is a bit of info' I have gleaned. Many years ago, I was given two one-gallon tins of very old (but unused) Mobil 140 gear oil. I had been using a more modern (1990s?) 140 gear oil in...

In 1983 I towed my TC race car behind my TC road car from Adelaide to the Geelong MG National Meeting. I built a light un-sprung car trailer for the purpose. The all-up AXLE weight was just below 750 kg. That trip is about 440 miles each way. I did it because I wanted to compete in both cars in the ...

Thanks also Steve. Sorry, I somehow only looked at the last post and missed that you had also replied. Your TC is also a late one and helps confirm that TCs all had the early casting. Yes, TC and TD housings are different because the machining to match the gearbox is different. However, a TD/TF/Y ho...

Thanks Ray. That helps confirm that my strong bell housing was not made during TC production, but made after they were strengthened later in the TD/TF era. It has been suggested that they were changed when the 8" clutch was introduced for the later TDs and TFs. This change included a thicker shaft w...

Hi Tom, I have a TA chassis and parts. On the side of the chassis I have written "approx 52 kg" in marker pen. I can't remember doing it, and it must have been twenty years ago at least, when I was toying with the idea of building another Special. It is a bare TA chassis with trunnions and brake/clu...

Thanks Antigam. Your observation strengthens the argument that it is an aftermarket replacement TC unit. The photo of the stronger bell housing is definitely a TC unit, not a TD/TF. The round protruding ridge on the front (which abuts the bearing outer) fits the larger TC gearbox and will not fit th...

Just curious. One image shows a TC bell housing as I remember most, with a hollow behind the clutch shaft. The other shows a much stronger casting behind the shaft. It is the only one I can remember seeing like that. Was that stronger style standard on late TCs or was it an improved replacement part...

Oops! Sorry, not yet used to this site so put up my second post thinking the first one had not gone through ... was just on a second page! Thanks guys, I did not know the originals were hard chromed. Are you sure? I am happy to learn new things but I have never seen one hard chromed despite all the ...

Hi fellow TC drivers, May I recommend case-hardening the Bishop Cam top plate (3 holes ... some diagrams call it a side plate). When I first started driving TCs 54 years ago, I found that every time I took the top plate off, the plate and the top face of the sector shaft showed signs of wear or "pic...

Hi guys, Sorry for this late response but I have just realised that for TC stuff, this might be THE site as other sites seem to concentrate mainly on TD and TF. I would like to comment on two steering box issues. Firstly the standard TC steering box. I have such in my road TC (since 1968) and my rac...

Thanks Steve.
Bob

Hi Marv,

It can be found in the 2016 archives under "rear seal oil drip". I will try to email you the image. I am assuming I can not post an image on this forum like I can on the enthusiasts forum?

Bob

Hi Lyn and Norman, If it is a Moss seal, yes the drain hole MUST be drilled. In fact when I made similar seals from 1988 to about 2000 I said the drain hole should be about 10 mm, which is much bigger than the small hole Moss suggests. I am new to this site so don't know how to post a photo. On the ...

Tone, If the fifth gear in your five speed gearbox is an overdrive, (and fourth is "direct"), it completely changes the diff ratio you need. In that case you will probably need the standard diff ratio because a ratio for high speed cruising will be provided by fifth gear. Sorry, I don't know if this...

I have a road TC and a supercharged race TC. I run a 4.2 or 3.7 ratio in the race TC (depending on the track) and a 4.55 ratio in the road TC. Ideal diff ratio depends on several factors. The power of the motor (stage of tune), the size of the wheels and the type of use the car gets. If you usually ...

Hi Jim, The TC sump can be removed with the engine in the car. It is made easier (but not necessary I think) by removing the clamp bolt from the steering drop-arm and pulling the steering arm off the splined shaft. DO NOT HAMMER THE STEERING ARM OFF as that might make divots in the steering worm or ...