Agreed on the washer, concave side up. I set the assembly snug but not super tight. It needs to prevent significant movement but the tighter you go, the less vibration will be absorbed.

Great photos! Very different times for sure.

Hard to tell exactly where it is from a photo but it looks like the hole to secure the wing to the petrol tank.

That sounds right. I pulled hex bolts out of a basket case, which I assumed were the original parts.

TC Motoring Guild (now in its 71st year of TC bliss) has monthly meetings, each with a presentation of some sort. Many of our meetings are held on Zoom, and those programs are often recorded for posterity. I did a presentation last month on some of the adventures we've had with our TC, and we decide...

I don't remember if this was covered in your previous thread, but try running the speedometer directly off a drill with a square bit. That will tell you for sure if it's the speedo itself or the cable. The color looks pretty good to me. A watchmaker could certainly move the hands for you, or you can...

Since Nisonger went under, the only shops I'm aware of are west. Since you'll have to ship them anyway unless you're lucky enough to live very close to a rebuilder, it doesn't really matter where they are. I use West Valley Instruments in Reseda, California. There's also Moma in New Mexico. And of c...

I don't know the answer but if anyone has a brass pump they don't need, I'd be interested in purchasing it.

Yes, I've always run the washer in that location on every TC I've worked on.

I don't have any pristine examples of original wood paint, but I use POR15 on my floorboards. It takes at least two coats to fully soak into the wood grain but once done, the wood is sealed for life with a rock hard black coating.

I use the same! Amazing stuff and it does seem to seal up the rivets nicely. But I usually use the Chassis Black because I find the glossy one too glossy. That's just personal preference though. The original finishes I've seen were somewhere in between, closer to the glossy one that the one I use.

The original finish was sort of a glossy semi-gloss. I usually use semi rather than glossy because full glossy looks too much like a modern show car to me. But some people prefer it because it looks fancy.

If you have a local re-lining shop, they can probably replace them for you.

The little ones look like throwout bearing springs. Big one looks like the one that holds the other bearing on the clutch plate.

I'm sure you'll find something closer to home, but if you can't then I have a few boxes and here in the USA.

Often you can pull the cable out just far enough since there's a bit of slack in it. If not, you can remove the clip from the other side and pull the housing away, assuming it has a clip. Then attach the cable, slide the housing back, and reinstall the clip.

I'm not positive but I've seen connections like that on cars of the period that used a screw through the end fitting of the cable into the shaft. Or maybe the screw passed all the way through, can't remember. I seem to recall the outer housing slides over the fitting on the back of the speedometer a...

I would use the oil recommended for the Morris, since the gears are the critical item to lubricate properly.

Someone probably installed a push button start, or TD/TF/MGA style pull switch. It could have even been used on a Wolsely or other car that used the same starter but with a different rear plate. I'd just remove it, get the plates smooth and flat again and put the switch on. New contact plates are al...

Well it's a great-looking car nonetheless!