Well, remember that mine is installed on the car, so off the car and compressed it would be shorter! Sounds like yours was made to the "in use" size, not the correct fully compressed size. A local drive line shop should be able to shorten it easily.

I'm not saying mine is in the best possible place, but there is 2" between the tach and the temp gauge, and about 2 1/4" from the bottom of the dash to the gauge. Steve, do you have any measurements of where your gauge is located? Spacing off the side of the speedo and up from the bottom of the dash...

I just measured mine as best I could sliding under with a tape and got approximately 43 5/8" from flange face to flange face.

Maybe someone thought it would be easier to fill with an oil gun from underneath?

Most people add gauges on the right of the tachometer, It's probably the best aesthetic choice even though it may be partially blocked by the steering wheel. I have a temperature gauge in that location. You can fit two gauges there without crowding if desired.

To be fair, it would take a tremendous amount of wear for the socket to separate during use unless it was adjusted way too loose. I currently run an original type on my TC.

Agreed, it can't be perfectly straight or when you press on it, It would ark the other way. Set it up to be as straight as possible just to make it easier on the joint, and that will also maximize efficiency. Here's a short video from a while back that sort of touches on this. https://youtu.be/BorBn...

Original distributor for XPAG engines. Model DKY4A / 40162 which is correct for MG TC or TD. All original including the good OEM points and soldered condenser. It was working when pulled many years ago but should be rebuilt, as there is too much play in the bushings. Complete from top to bottom incl...

Worst case, if you fill the float bowls with fuel then it should give you plenty of runtime to get it onto a trailer.

The puller type pumps (AUA25) are 1.5 psi. The later pusher type for TF, MGA/B, etc are higher, between 2.7 and 3.8 IIRC.

I'm not saying it's right, but it probably won't make any difference once it's tightened down.

Just a minor correction, Bob Alley in in Northern California, not Arizona. Unless there's another Bob Alley building MGs!

Maybe try Steve Baker and some of the other guys who build specials. They should have all the parts for this conversion available.

Congratulations on your purchase, Andy! Can you give us some updated details and history on your car?

I'd have to measure again but as I recall it's about 5-6" for the bottoms, 12" for the uprights and 20-something for the top. The exact size isn't important, it just needs to pad things. I bought some polyurethane rubber sheet and cut my own. 80A seemed too hard so I used 60A instead. One set is ins...

I have nothing useful to add here, except that among other things, our area grows a lot of your berries, citrus and avocados.

They're probably writing the instructions for a stock engine, which would be fine with the blower. A lot of us have raised the compression significantly, so you would definitely be better off lowering it back down to around 8:1 if you plan on running more than a few pounds of boost.

I don't think a PCV system will work with a blower.

So long as the level is above the shield in the MC, you have enough. The actual level isn't critical, it's just a reservoir of extra fluid. Do leave a bit of space at the top or you run the risk of some squirting out the breather hole when you release the brakes.

I've seen lots of them installed on TCs and I didn't notice any mods required. The kits are designed to fit under the bonnet. I haven't done one personally but there are a few of them in our club so I could get photos at the next meet if needed.