The cap is assembled with a split (cotter) pin but the trigger and its spring are secured with a screw. I Haven't checked the thread but the major diameter of mine measures approximately 2.70 mm. Given the era of the TC I would guess the thread to be BA (British Association). 2.70 mm is within a kna...

rstarkweather wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 09, 2024 1:20 pm

I do not know where the other end of the return spring attaches to the chassis.
Rick

Both NTG and Brown & Gammons supply the felt. I don't know what Moss charge but it's probably around the same.

What happened in 1978 - did you buy it?

The badge bar brackets are ferrous castings, handed and should be finished in body colour.

Would I be okay to use the existing shaft and lapping paste and have at it back and forth or would I risk damaging the shaft? I found 220 grit available nearby, is that sufficient or coarser grit? The shaft is steel and the wheel boss aluminium. Conventional wisdom suggests that the abrasive will b...

Steve Simmons wrote: ↑

Tue Apr 09, 2024 9:17 am

If you can find an old steering shaft, you can use it as a broach.

That's what I did with some valve lapping paste - got it on eventually.

Rob Reilly wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 29, 2024 10:08 am

The Blower manual has spring data for all models including the TC.

....and this is the data for the TC front.....

Mark Strang wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 12, 2024 1:18 pm

Thanks for the guidance but what is fiberboard? Mark

About a third of the way down this page read the paragraph 'Black grain board'.

Sherrell suggests they were rexine covered plywood. This from the library suggests using fibreboard.
I made mine from fibreboard but it did need some battening attached to it to stop it sagging and distorting - I think ply would be a better answer.

When I bought TC6468 in 1966 (in the UK) it sported the gold instrument panel on Rexine dash, 'EX-U' steering wheel and the 'Made in England' scuttle plate fitted to some later cars sold in the UK. It also wore 16" wheels perhaps hinting at a previous race history. After its restoration many years l...

Thanks for that Tom - one more thing I can tidy up.

Mine run similarly, discharging in the region of the front engine mount....... I've wondered if there should be a clip attaching to some part of the engine anchoring the ends of the pipe to stop them flapping about? At the moment mine are clamped together with a cable tie.

This might be slightly better than yours; still needs a lot of work though..

The keyed shaft carries the MG badge and with the 'key' inserted in the spare wheel carrier it doesn't rotate and ensures that the badge remains in the correct orientation, independent of the position of the spinner. These piccies showing the assembled retainer may help to explain. P1390012.JPG P139...

My first choice for this type of work would always be S&T plating just north of Bristol. They have done several plating jobs for me over the years including repair and re-chroming of my TC radiator shell and the headlamp bowls..... P1370234.JPG Their work is invariably excellent and fairly priced. T...

If it's still making some sound - albeit rather strangled - it will usually just need adjusting. You can access the Lucas adjustment and overhaul instructions here.

Being non-hygroscopic DOT 5 is finding favour with Classic owners whose cars spend significant time off the road. DOT3 is fine for daily drivers and does absorb less water than DOT 4, it is however getting quite difficult to find - at least here in the UK. I've just spent some time on the web trying...

I don't have a photo to hand but I have arranged for my rear wings to align perfectly with the running boards so there is no "sticking out". Consequently, I have perfect alignment from the front of the car to the back. On my car the "gap" is only the width of the piping thickness, so the horizontal...

I carried the front wing/running board piping through the gap to butt up with the rear wing piping. There didn't seem to be a very tidy alternative.....