Have you ever heard "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Surely one of the "charms" of the T series is the high-geared steering. If the car is set up correctly, which mine is (with 1/2" toe in) it drives perfectly well. I suspect that fitting lower ratio steering boxes is covering up incorrect joints. worn kong pins and toe-in etc.

Aaron, yes, go to the website then choose MG TC then Tech Index, it's the first line and has the info on the seals you'll need. You'll also ned a 10 ton press (or more).

Or just click this: http://www.lotus7news.co.uk/MG-TC-Tech-index.htm

Aaron, yes, go to the website then choose MG TC then Tech Index, it's the first line and has the info on the seals you'll need. You'll also ned a 10 ton press (or more).

Or just click this: http://www.lotus7news.co.uk/MG-TC-Tech-index.htm

Aaron, look on my rebuild blog to see how to rebuild the shocks, Go to Tech Index and follow it from there,

Luke, welcome aboard. You need Whitworth spanners (wrenches) and sockets and you may get them in Harbour Freight. Just looked and can't see any but there are 11 pages of sockets and wrenches. If not Machine Mart in the UK have them, maybe someone can get them for you and ship them as a personal item...

Sounds like a half shaft, not uncommon. Doesn't take long to check. If you tape a strong magnet onto a broom handle you may be lucky and be able to pull the broken bit out of the diff.

My theory on the high volume of oil pumped up to the rocker shaft is that it drains down over the camshaft and followers. When cold the volume of oil in the rocker cover will almost reach the top but as the oil gets hot and thinner it drains down.

Only a theory, you can now all shoot me down

That's what I did. However, you'll probably find they have to come off and back on again many times Good luck

Another vote for Tom Wilson.

Michael, if it helps look at my rebuild blog http://www.lotus7news.co.uk/MG_TC_Shock_absorbers.htm

JD, not sure if it's relevant but the replacement lenses on the market are a lot thicker than the originals.

Back in the 60s I was taught to use white high temperature grease on inner cables and then very sparingly.

I remember changing a few spokes on one wheel on mine and there are two lengths, a short and a long. I think I got them from NTG and had no problem fitting them. I used the guitar tuning method of getting them all tensioned, pinging the spokes to get them all playing the same note. After new tyres w...

You can always drill a new hole if it's far enough away from the original.

I got mine from a chap in Kent who had laser cut repro faces for speedo and tacho. Did a rubbish job on the clocks though. I found a father and son outfit that specialised in chrono gauges for bikes but they did a good job on mine, still working 5 years later.

Not sure about torque measurements, when I started (1961) we just knew how much to tighten them, Torque wrenches were only used on cranks and heads. They should be tight without using a foot long spanner. To get you nut to align with the split pin hole rub the face down on a sheet of emery cloth on ...

The most common problem is a kink in the cable. Check the cable run from gearbox to speedo head and straighten any sharp bends. Most common place is the exit from the gearbox. I light smear of whit grease is all that should be put on inner cable. Over oiling will lead to excess oil in the heads (tac...

Doug has a replacement outlet pipe with a longer pipe. This stops the bottom 2/3" of petrol being drawn up thereby leaving the crus floating in the bottom of the tank.

Not difficult to solder a pipe to the existing if you want.

Naresh, My blog may be of help, if you have a few days to read it all! http://www.lotus7news.co.uk/MG-TC-HOME.htm