Carl Fritz wrote
I didn't know about the gas tank strainer either - and I just took off my tank and slosh-fixed a small leak - Wish I had known about the strainer ! I did however manage to fix the leak using "Kreem" three part sloshing kit purchased from JC Whitney Company (http://www.jcwhitney.com) for $26.
FUEL TANK LINER KIT
Seals pinholes and hairline cracks in old tanks.
Prevents rust and corrosion and protects fuel against contamination in new tanks.
Liner adheres beautifully to inside of fuel tank, sets up fast and cures to a smooth, tough, permanent elastomer finish. White color helps you see that tank is thoroughly coated. Resists leaded and unleaded gas, gasohol, octane boosters and fuel additives when used as recommended. Shipped separately from factory. Includes one quart of liner, one pint of concentrated washer/cleaner, 1/2 pint of conditioner and instructions. Fuel Tank Liner. Includes one gallon of liner and instructions.
Jim Shade, West Covina CA
Gas Tank Filter + Slosh fixing gas tank leak
-
FDShade@aol.com
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 1999 7:14 am
-
FDShade@aol.com
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Mon Nov 29, 1999 7:14 am
Gas Tank Leak ?
Here from my file are a few responses to previous gas-tank leak queries:"
===
Dispose of the fuel in an enveronmentally friendly way (or use it as a degreasing agent, but beware of the fumes). If the tank is badly rused, replace it, the UK source of T type metal work I would recommend is Sportscar Metalworks phone 44 (0) 1753 654144 speak with Mick Beakhouse &send him my regards, a lot of my TC was made by Mick! Very good prices, can be in steel or alluminium. If slightly rusted treat the inside with sealant as used in aircraft tanks, made in USA, I have a UK supply source if you need it. Remember to take the fuel filter out first, a MG Car Club member found the fuel didn't flow after he treated his!
All the best
Steve Taylor
======
If the tank is really rusty and also needs to be repainted, you could have it chemically dipped to remove all rust and paint, inside and out. Then pour some aircraft sloshing compound into the tank and slosh it around to seal the internal surfaces. Make sure the slosh compound is good for no lead, modern gasoline. You will have to remove the low fuel level float, filler cap and the fuel line filter before you dip the tank. Repaint the tank. If this too radical, steam clean the tank which should remove most of the rust and crud without damage to the paint. Again, slosh. Or, without removing the tank, remove both drain/fuel line connections and wash the tank out with hot water/soap solution and rinse. Most of the crud should come out. Old fuel, I burn it in my outdoor barbecue pit. Any better suggestions??
Good luck,
Bob Grunau
=====
First you must use sealer that is designed for today's cocktail they call gasoline. I now have sealer made by POR15 (ref. Hemmings and other sources). Second, I gave up on sending unit. I tried three or more types of gasket material including gas tank stop-leak epoxy (after surfacing sending unit and tank ring perfectly flat) and I was real careful sealing screws also. My conclusion is forget the low fuel light (Abingdon's 'drawing office really botched the sending unit design) if you have more important things too attend to in your life and don't like the idea of repainting your tank as often as a wooden boat. Use a dip stick and trip meter. The source for leaks from sending unit are, 1 - base of unit/tank joint, 2 - six screws, 3 - electrical panel cover, 4 - electric terminal screw. Before you seal/line tank, remove float from sending unit (but store it with rest of your interesting TC parts). Mount rest of sending unit without gasket to tank. Then slosh tank with sealer. Buy rubber stopper with one hole (chem lab supply) large enough to plug filler cap and install long neck tubeless tire valve on stopper. Pressure test tank with compressed air by pressurizing to about twenty pounds (careful, do not bulge sheet metal). Apply shaving soap to suspect leak areas, including stopper. If visual check is OK, let stand over night. Check pressure in morning with tire guage. If all pressure is lost, reslosh with more sealer. Good luck. Oh, make sure your gas cap keeps gas in tank when cornering with full tank, but it must also allow air in to replace gas pumped out.
Peter Pleitner'
====
"Which Permatex Product? Ultra-Grey should be the latest product that they have. It is gasoline impervious. Previous product was Part No. 9B, A compound that 'sealed' fairly well.
John Seim
===
I think I've found the 'solution' to the sending unit leak problem. My tank is painted cream and the petrol here is dyed red (for leaded) so even the slightest leak is very visible. It's a two part putty made by loctite. You knead the two parts together, and put a bead around the flange in lieu of a gasket. Works perfectly, and I've had occasion to remove the sender for repairs after this process and it actually comes off without damage! In Australia its part number is RPK1 and is sold in all auto parts shops. My current installation has survived a year of full tanks, lots of driving, heaps of temperature changes and there is still a perfect seal. I would know very quickly if there wasn't!
John Swanland TC 7557
====
The sending unit has 3 areas prone to leaking. 1. seal at sending unit to tank 2. seal at cover plate on sending unit 3. seal on post where wire connects to sending unit IMHO forget about any neoprene gaskets and stick with cork- it doesn't extrude out when tightened. I had mine perfect for a while, then gave up and sealed the whole unit up so it externaly looks perfect but is in effect non functioning. After all you need a stick anyway to measure fuel!
Bob Skillman
==
I ordered a KREEM brand sloshing kit from http://www.jcwhitney.com/"JC Whitney, Inc.
Search under "Car Care and Chemicals" - "Sealants" - "Liquid Fuel Tank Liner Kit"
I used it last month - so far so good !
Jim Shade, West Covina CA
===
Dispose of the fuel in an enveronmentally friendly way (or use it as a degreasing agent, but beware of the fumes). If the tank is badly rused, replace it, the UK source of T type metal work I would recommend is Sportscar Metalworks phone 44 (0) 1753 654144 speak with Mick Beakhouse &send him my regards, a lot of my TC was made by Mick! Very good prices, can be in steel or alluminium. If slightly rusted treat the inside with sealant as used in aircraft tanks, made in USA, I have a UK supply source if you need it. Remember to take the fuel filter out first, a MG Car Club member found the fuel didn't flow after he treated his!
All the best
Steve Taylor
======
If the tank is really rusty and also needs to be repainted, you could have it chemically dipped to remove all rust and paint, inside and out. Then pour some aircraft sloshing compound into the tank and slosh it around to seal the internal surfaces. Make sure the slosh compound is good for no lead, modern gasoline. You will have to remove the low fuel level float, filler cap and the fuel line filter before you dip the tank. Repaint the tank. If this too radical, steam clean the tank which should remove most of the rust and crud without damage to the paint. Again, slosh. Or, without removing the tank, remove both drain/fuel line connections and wash the tank out with hot water/soap solution and rinse. Most of the crud should come out. Old fuel, I burn it in my outdoor barbecue pit. Any better suggestions??
Good luck,
Bob Grunau
=====
First you must use sealer that is designed for today's cocktail they call gasoline. I now have sealer made by POR15 (ref. Hemmings and other sources). Second, I gave up on sending unit. I tried three or more types of gasket material including gas tank stop-leak epoxy (after surfacing sending unit and tank ring perfectly flat) and I was real careful sealing screws also. My conclusion is forget the low fuel light (Abingdon's 'drawing office really botched the sending unit design) if you have more important things too attend to in your life and don't like the idea of repainting your tank as often as a wooden boat. Use a dip stick and trip meter. The source for leaks from sending unit are, 1 - base of unit/tank joint, 2 - six screws, 3 - electrical panel cover, 4 - electric terminal screw. Before you seal/line tank, remove float from sending unit (but store it with rest of your interesting TC parts). Mount rest of sending unit without gasket to tank. Then slosh tank with sealer. Buy rubber stopper with one hole (chem lab supply) large enough to plug filler cap and install long neck tubeless tire valve on stopper. Pressure test tank with compressed air by pressurizing to about twenty pounds (careful, do not bulge sheet metal). Apply shaving soap to suspect leak areas, including stopper. If visual check is OK, let stand over night. Check pressure in morning with tire guage. If all pressure is lost, reslosh with more sealer. Good luck. Oh, make sure your gas cap keeps gas in tank when cornering with full tank, but it must also allow air in to replace gas pumped out.
Peter Pleitner'
====
"Which Permatex Product? Ultra-Grey should be the latest product that they have. It is gasoline impervious. Previous product was Part No. 9B, A compound that 'sealed' fairly well.
John Seim
===
I think I've found the 'solution' to the sending unit leak problem. My tank is painted cream and the petrol here is dyed red (for leaded) so even the slightest leak is very visible. It's a two part putty made by loctite. You knead the two parts together, and put a bead around the flange in lieu of a gasket. Works perfectly, and I've had occasion to remove the sender for repairs after this process and it actually comes off without damage! In Australia its part number is RPK1 and is sold in all auto parts shops. My current installation has survived a year of full tanks, lots of driving, heaps of temperature changes and there is still a perfect seal. I would know very quickly if there wasn't!
John Swanland TC 7557
====
The sending unit has 3 areas prone to leaking. 1. seal at sending unit to tank 2. seal at cover plate on sending unit 3. seal on post where wire connects to sending unit IMHO forget about any neoprene gaskets and stick with cork- it doesn't extrude out when tightened. I had mine perfect for a while, then gave up and sealed the whole unit up so it externaly looks perfect but is in effect non functioning. After all you need a stick anyway to measure fuel!
Bob Skillman
==
I ordered a KREEM brand sloshing kit from http://www.jcwhitney.com/"JC Whitney, Inc.
Search under "Car Care and Chemicals" - "Sealants" - "Liquid Fuel Tank Liner Kit"
I used it last month - so far so good !
Jim Shade, West Covina CA