BMC Replacement engine

[Steve Simmons]

You can fill it from underneath with one of those pump devices and a bit of vinyl hose. I did this for a few years before I realized you're supposed to remove the inspection cover and to do it from above.

You can fill it through the filler cap or in a pinch you can fill it through the level plug on the side, but the hole is kind of small.

[robertscottcostello]

Thanks. So I should be able to see if the top plug pin hole is free too.

[robertscottcostello]

Incidentally, you may or may not be aware that in England a "vintage" car is one that was built before 1931.

Presumably this is not the case in America.?

Interesting. From a registration standpoint, we usually refer to 'Antique' or 'Classic", meaning cars that are at least 25 years old. The younger set uses the word 'vintage' to refer to anything that existed prior to their arrival in this world, including ourselves.

[robertscottcostello]

You'll get lots of differing opinions on fluids and other sundries. I've changed my own mind over the years as I've experimented and found better (in my opinion) products, My current choices are:

Engine: Valvoline VR1 20W-50
Gearbox: Redline 75W-140 NS
Rear Axle: Royal Purple 85W-140 or Redline 80W-140
Steering Box: Redline Heavy Shockproof (In both BC and Datsun boxes)
Cooling: Prestone green, 20% mix (no freezing danger here)
Brakes: Any name brand DOT4. I've also used DOT5 with no issues.

I have almost an entire quart of DOT3 in my cabinet. Anything wrong with me purging the brake system of all fluids and replacing with DOT3?

[Steve Simmons]

Technically speaking, DOT3 has a shelf life once opened. Since it's hygroscopic, as soon as the lid comes off the fluid begins pulling in moisture from the surrounding air. There's much debate on this, but the concept of a shelf life is valid. The ambient humidity in your area will likely have an effect on how fast it goes bad as well. I don't generally use DOT 3/4 after about a year if the container is open. The less fluid in the bottle, the quicker I feel it goes bad. Some say that even unopened containers should be discarded after a few years.

[robertscottcostello]

Good advice. Aside from that, wouldn't DOT3 be the best to use?

[Steve Simmons]

The only significant difference between DOT 3 and 4 that I'm aware of is the boiling point. DOT4 is higher, so technically better. It's actually hard to find DOT 3 these days, at least around here. But it would work just as well as DOT4 except for when the brakes get super hot.

[Duncan M]

Supertech DOT3 from walmart is great stuff. Any Dot 3 is fine, unless your car currently has Dot 5 in it. 3/4/5.1 do not mix with (silicone) Dot 5. Technically, DOT3 is less hygroscopic than DOT4.

Vintage racers with brakes that get real hot use 5.1, which is not silicone.

I carry a temp gun in the TC for laughs. I usually check temp of diff, transmission and oil pan and brake temps when I return from a long drive. I have been known to check brake temps out during a run. Never seen drum temps higher than 120F. But, I run stock gearing.

*** today a gallon of DOT3 is under $22 at Walmart. A quart is more than enough to fully bleed all 4 wheels of a TC, and then go back and bleed the fronts again. A fresh quart bottle is under $10.

[antijam]

Being non-hygroscopic DOT 5 is finding favour with Classic owners whose cars spend significant time off the road. DOT3 is fine for daily drivers and does absorb less water than DOT 4, it is however getting quite difficult to find - at least here in the UK. I've just spent some time on the web trying to locate some for my '71 Corvette - eventually found some produced by Brembo, a name more associated these days with high performance braking systems. I wasn't expensive either.