Removing rear wheels
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Removing rear wheels
I've searched and seen others have had trouble removing their rear wheels (1949 TC), the issue being lack of clearance on the leading side (towards the front.) Some have said that the axle can be out of place. I can't imagine that being the case, having looked at mine. I don't even know how that could happen. Others have suggested lifting the chassis. What difference could it make if you are lifting it by the frame? The chassis is bolted to the frame, no?
At any rate, what is the solution, short of deflating the tires?
At any rate, I have gotten mine off, and will be sporting a new set of Blockleys.
At any rate, what is the solution, short of deflating the tires?
At any rate, I have gotten mine off, and will be sporting a new set of Blockleys.
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Removing rear wheels
Usually it's oversized tires that create a problem, mostly at the top. Angling the bottom outward as the wheel comes off is the usual workaround. It is possible for the axle to be out of position if the springs are aftermarket and not made correctly. The locating pin can be in the wrong place. To check, measure the wheelbase from front to rear and compare to factory specs as found in the brown book. It's probably also possible for the rear wings to be placed incorrectly if the woodwork has been replaced and not done correctly.
Lifting the chassis will allow the wheel to drop down, which should help with clearance.
Lifting the chassis will allow the wheel to drop down, which should help with clearance.
- Rob Reilly
- Posts: 351
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- Location: Indiana, USA
Re: Removing rear wheels
It is unclear to me what you mean by lifting by the chassis as opposed to lifting by the frame.
Chassis and frame are the same thing. The body tub is bolted to it.
One should always place a jack under the chassis/frame, never under the body.
The rear axle can certainly be out of correct position if the spring saddles are broken or the locating pins sheared off. This problem is described in one of the T Series restoration books.
Here a previous owner of many decades ago has done some welding repairs on the saddles of my TA.
Chassis and frame are the same thing. The body tub is bolted to it.
One should always place a jack under the chassis/frame, never under the body.
The rear axle can certainly be out of correct position if the spring saddles are broken or the locating pins sheared off. This problem is described in one of the T Series restoration books.
Here a previous owner of many decades ago has done some welding repairs on the saddles of my TA.
1937 TA 1271
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Re: Removing rear wheels
I have reason to believe the wood was replaced. Is there a great deal of possible variance on how the wings are fixed? I am guessing one could have the rotation off, or have the dimension to or from the center off. Wheelbase looks good, and the springs look good. Wouldn't there be only one choice for the locating pin in the frame?Steve Simmons wrote: ↑Mon Sep 04, 2023 11:16 amUsually it's oversized tires that create a problem, mostly at the top. Angling the bottom outward as the wheel comes off is the usual workaround. It is possible for the axle to be out of position if the springs are aftermarket and not made correctly. The locating pin can be in the wrong place. To check, measure the wheelbase from front to rear and compare to factory specs as found in the brown book. It's probably also possible for the rear wings to be placed incorrectly if the woodwork has been replaced and not done correctly.
Lifting the chassis will allow the wheel to drop down, which should help with clearance.
Re: Removing rear wheels
Rob, it was not said there was a difference between chassis and frame. Robert was having troubles removing wheels with the oversized tires. Appears he had jacked from under the diff, and was wondering if it would be easier to remove the wheels if he instead jacked from the chassis rail on one side. I used to think it was necessary to deflate the rear tires to get the wheels off, but soon learned it was a matter of angling the wheel just right, being careful not to bugger the hub or splines. No need to deflate.
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Re: Removing rear wheels
I misspoke on the chassis vs frame. Felt dumb right after hitting submit. I jacked it on the frame a few inches behind the axle. Pins appear to be good. Wheels went back in like a piece of cake. Spring saddles look intact. I angled the forward part of the tire first, it worked like a charm. I'll have to revisit this the next time I take the wheels off, which will likely be before the next driving season. Thanks for the pics, those are very helpful.Rob Reilly wrote: ↑Thu Sep 07, 2023 4:30 amIt is unclear to me what you mean by lifting by the chassis as opposed to lifting by the frame.
Chassis and frame are the same thing.
IMG_20210704_134030452.jpg
The body tub is bolted to it.
One should always place a jack under the chassis/frame, never under the body.
The rear axle can certainly be out of correct position if the spring saddles are broken or the locating pins sheared off. This problem is described in one of the T Series restoration books.
Here a previous owner of many decades ago has done some welding repairs on the saddles of my TA.
IMG_20220429_094335368_HDR.jpg
Re: Removing rear wheels
Please take care not to pinch the fuel line when jacking up there. At some time in the past someone squashed the pipe on my car. It only came to light when I renewed the fuel line. I bet the p/o had fuel starvation and couldn't work out why!
Incidentally, I re routed the new pipe so it can't happen again;.
Incidentally, I re routed the new pipe so it can't happen again;.
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Re: Removing rear wheels
Yep. I noticed the routing when I drained my tank and blew out the lines. I too will be moving mine when time permits. Scary place to have a fuel line.Ray White wrote: ↑Thu Sep 07, 2023 11:16 amPlease take care not to pinch the fuel line when jacking up there. At some time in the past someone squashed the pipe on my car. It only came to light when I renewed the fuel line. I bet the p/o had fuel starvation and couldn't work out why!
Incidentally, I re routed the new pipe so it can't happen again;.
- Mark McCombs
- Posts: 337
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 9:28 am
- Location: Columbus, Ohio
Re: Removing rear wheels
I put together a short length of 2 x 4 with blocks on each end that act as standoffs to engage the frame rails, leaving the 2 x 4 itself a few inches below the exhaust pipe and fuel line.
Re: Removing rear wheels
I keep a piece of wood with a round hole through it in the TC. For jacking from under the differential. To protect the bottom drain plug. Works wonders.
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Re: Removing rear wheels
I do something similar with the bolts from the diving board in my pool when winterizing. Hurts when you step on them.
Re: Removing rear wheels
I have to let the air out of the tires on the rear axle if I want to remove the wheels. Some friends with TC's have the same problem.
- robertscottcostello
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2022 3:30 am
- Location: West Dundee IL
Re: Removing rear wheels
I have heard the same from others. At this point I should be good for a few years. New Blockleys installed.