Paint for Diff Cover

[rstarkweather]

I made up a new diff cover for my TC. I understand it is supposed to be painted black. Recommendations on matte, satin or gloss finish?

[Steve Simmons]

The original finish was sort of a glossy semi-gloss. I usually use semi rather than glossy because full glossy looks too much like a modern show car to me. But some people prefer it because it looks fancy.

[Duncan M]

You "made up" a new cover? Pic?

[Rob Reilly]

I painted all chassis parts Rustoleum Gloss Black. After a few years it fades to looking a little dull, like every truck chassis you've ever seen.

[BCBryan]

I used POR15 because it helps seal the rivets which tend to leak. It looks shinny black originally.
Bryan.

[Steve Simmons]

I use the same! Amazing stuff and it does seem to seal up the rivets nicely. But I usually use the Chassis Black because I find the glossy one too glossy. That's just personal preference though. The original finishes I've seen were somewhere in between, closer to the glossy one that the one I use.

[rstarkweather]

To clarify my initial post, since this thread has morphed a bit to discuss paint for the chassis, I was referring to the wood cover above the rear axle in the rear compartment of the TC. My TC does not have a side curtain box, so my cover is a little different than original, but it is basically the same width as the dimensions shown on page 161 of TC's Forever (789 mm). A picture is attached with the initial coat of primer.

[Steve Simmons]

I don't have any pristine examples of original wood paint, but I use POR15 on my floorboards. It takes at least two coats to fully soak into the wood grain but once done, the wood is sealed for life with a rock hard black coating.

[Duncan M]

"Diff inspection cover" is probably the best description for the "bolted" down and hinged lid. Makes it so easy to service the dampers and fill or top off the differential oil, as well as to check occasionally that the hole (vent) is clear in the fill plug. Also much easier to replace or inspect that rear brake flex line from above.

I am not really convinced the floorboards were originally painted any color at all. The diff inspection cover was painted black on my black and green TC. After 72 years of ownership the original lid still fits perfectly on mine, and the holes for the "bolts" still line up perfectly, also.

[rstarkweather]

Duncan:

To confirm, the diff inspection cover is bolted in? The aluminum cover on my TC was also bolted in, but it also supported an external fuel cell (long story). I was wondering if I should also bolt down the plywood replacement.

Rick

[Rob Reilly]

Glad we got that misinterpretation cleared up. I was thinking Salisbury axles. Should have known the T does not have a rear cover on the diff.
I have not yet reached the point of sealing my wood.
My rear axle cover parts came with two holes and tee-nut threaded inserts, 6mm x 1.0 thread, so I assumed the idea was to lift it off to do the inspection. I made a couple of screws with wing nuts.

20250118_080556.jpg (45.68 KiB) Viewed 2099 times

My battery is also back under there. Originally there were two 6V batteries back there.

20231015_120918.jpg (60.59 KiB) Viewed 2099 times

[Duncan M]

Rick-
The original plywood was held it place by the hinges, and held down by a 1/4" Whitworth "bolt" (on each side) with a slotted screwdriver slot on top to tighten. Threadform matches up exactly to a 1/4" WHITWORTH. Down below there is a sort of captive nut to accept the bolt. The captive nut on my TC has never been touched, but the 1/4" W "bolts" were recently made up by me. 20 T.P.I. 55* degree Whitworth. They tend to rattle loose and disappear if not kept quite tight.

[rstarkweather]

Thanks all. Very helpful.