Repair Chronometric Tachometer and Speedometer

[timberstone]

Please advise any contact for repair shop east of the Mississippi.
Heard that several previous employees of Nisonger Instruments set up a separate shop for servicing old instruments, but do not know where they are and how to contact them.

[Duncan M]

No picture? What do you think is wrong with them?

[Steve Simmons]

Since Nisonger went under, the only shops I'm aware of are west. Since you'll have to ship them anyway unless you're lucky enough to live very close to a rebuilder, it doesn't really matter where they are. I use West Valley Instruments in Reseda, California. There's also Moma in New Mexico. And of course the UK shops but shipping wouldn't be cheap.

[timberstone]

These are the Chronometric instruments that need attention:
Speedometer has jumpy needle between 40 and 50 miles per hour.
(Subject of a previous thread -- with advice to look inside the speedometer since the cable is good)

Tachometer -- works fine but the clock dial needles do not synch hour with minutes. Maybe a local watchmaker could fix this, or maybe even a gingerly lift and shift of the hands could be done at home, but both instruments need the dial faces checked for proper colors that are period correct.
Not sure whether the dial faces should be more silver grey and both should be the same color.
-- and somewhere there is an article which sets forth the dial face styles, colors and numbers by year and model.

Have heard a few months ago that some of the former employees of Nisonger Instruments, who could perform Chronometric service, set up shop somewhere on the East Coast. Lost contact with the source of this notice.
The former employees were quoted as saying that they could now do the work on Chronometric instruments. Do not think that one of the employees was Peter Bayer who did these instruments previously at Nisonger.

Have very good relations with West Valley Instruments in Reseda California, as results of several previous purchases and repairs. Morris Mintz is not getting any younger and not sure that they have anyone to follow him. So, would like to develop the source with any additional provider of these services.
The shop in England -- John Marks in Tunbridge Wells -- did some instruments for us about 10 years ago, but think that now they will not do work for anyone outside of England due to paperwork complications. If anyone has recent Stateside experience with them then please advise and explain.
Thank you,

Instruments Chronometric March 2025.pdf

(2.27 MiB) Downloaded 40 times

[Steve Simmons]

I don't remember if this was covered in your previous thread, but try running the speedometer directly off a drill with a square bit. That will tell you for sure if it's the speedo itself or the cable. The color looks pretty good to me. A watchmaker could certainly move the hands for you, or you can buy the special little puller and do it yourself although it's pretty touchy.

The last time I was at WVI they had a new-ish guy in there doing repairs. He did a couple MGB gauges for me and did a nice job. I think Morris is still doing the chronometric ones though.

[Rob Reilly]

Here are my '37 TA tach and speedo faces.
Before

and after, done by West Valley.

There is a slight green tint, which they said was correct. It matches my oil pressure and ammeter gauges.

[Duncan M]

Robert's (boxley) gauge faces and numbers are both reproduction. The tach, with K39 between Jaeger and center of gauge is a mystery. TA, TC both had K30 and early TD chronometrics were K45, I think. Robert's faces are among the better reproduction faces, and took a few minutes to confirm they were reproduction. FTFU used to (still do?) have faces of that counterfeit quality. The bright numbers of the odometer and trip meter are also easy giveaways. My determination has nothing to do with color of face, rather what is printed on the face. Face should have a greenish quality about them.

Chronomatric clocks are easily serviced with clock oil by anyone familiar with the process. There are certain places you do NOT oil. Filthy clockworks can easily be "cleaned" prior to oiling with spray can silicone and a sensible touch.