Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
- SavannahDog
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2017 5:05 pm
Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
So, Hows the gasket on the rear of the bonnet held in place. Or what is used to hold it in place.
Julian Carter
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
- Julian Evers
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:55 am
Re: Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
There is a rubber strip, part half round half flat. Abingdon Spares part # 43-001. Fitted with short wood nails/tacks into the body. Make sure that they have small heads and do not end up proud of the rubber strip or they will rub against the bonnet.
Best regards
Julian
Best regards
Best regards
Julian
Best regards
- SavannahDog
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2017 5:05 pm
Re: Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
Thanks Julian, I've been buying Abingdon's hood gasket already. Yet it comes as a gasket only. There are no means to hold it i place included. So what do they look like? Is this something I might find in a hardware store. I can picture a small head I have seen them in pictures. Yet I cannot see the rear end. Is it something two legged where you'd split the legs and fold them over.
Julian Carter
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
- joel hutchins
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2016 12:12 pm
- Location: Omaha, NE
Re: Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
Julian;
I restored my TC 1975 to1985 and have driven it 12,000 miles since.
I used 'tacks' to fasten the rubber gasket to the wood where the rear edge of the bonnet rests. Tacks come in a number of lengths and the wood you are nailing into has a depth of about 3/4" as I remember. Use a 5/16 or a 3/8" tack. Using a 'tack hammer' worked best for me as the striking head is smaller then the head of a regular hammer so less chance of damage with a errant strike. Also the tack hammers normally have a magnetized end which allows you to start the tack easily.
The tacks also have a larger head so they hold the rubber better. I have not had any tacks lift up.
Regards, Joel.
I restored my TC 1975 to1985 and have driven it 12,000 miles since.
I used 'tacks' to fasten the rubber gasket to the wood where the rear edge of the bonnet rests. Tacks come in a number of lengths and the wood you are nailing into has a depth of about 3/4" as I remember. Use a 5/16 or a 3/8" tack. Using a 'tack hammer' worked best for me as the striking head is smaller then the head of a regular hammer so less chance of damage with a errant strike. Also the tack hammers normally have a magnetized end which allows you to start the tack easily.
The tacks also have a larger head so they hold the rubber better. I have not had any tacks lift up.
Regards, Joel.
- SavannahDog
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Wed Feb 01, 2017 5:05 pm
Re: Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
Great, Thanks
Julian Carter
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
1948 MG TC
1952 Chevy Pickup
1967 Triumph TR4A
1970 Triumph GT6
Re: Hood er Bonnet gasket fastiner
Coincidentally I've just fitted mine...
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I used 20mm stainless steel panel pins (probably a few more than strictly necessary)....
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To get the rubber to sit evenly I found it best to fit the first pins either side of the hinge bracket...

..and then fix the lower end of the rubber with two more after putting the rubber in slight tension. Then fitted the rest of the pins. After driving the pins most of the way in I used a punch to ensure the heads were just sub-flush with the rubber - as shown by the lower pin in this piccie; the upper one could do with another tap...
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Incidentally I initially bought the rubber seal from Moss. The section was difficult to fit and too thick to allow the bonnet (hood) hinge line to match the cowl line on the body. I then bought the thinner section from Brown & Gammons instead, which gave a much better fit.

I used 20mm stainless steel panel pins (probably a few more than strictly necessary)....

To get the rubber to sit evenly I found it best to fit the first pins either side of the hinge bracket...

..and then fix the lower end of the rubber with two more after putting the rubber in slight tension. Then fitted the rest of the pins. After driving the pins most of the way in I used a punch to ensure the heads were just sub-flush with the rubber - as shown by the lower pin in this piccie; the upper one could do with another tap...

Incidentally I initially bought the rubber seal from Moss. The section was difficult to fit and too thick to allow the bonnet (hood) hinge line to match the cowl line on the body. I then bought the thinner section from Brown & Gammons instead, which gave a much better fit.