Brake Master Cylinder on TC

[lasloja]

Has anyone tried to replace the single chamber brake Master Cylinder with a two chamber? If so what were your results and how did you do it. I see on the forum most people say just replace the original and be happy. Just thought I check. Thank you in advance for your input.

[stephen stierman]

If you look in the Resources area of this site under brakes, Jim Buell has an article about using a VW dual chamber MC with a nice write up. My TC has a compact Wilwood single cylinder MC that I installed because the original was missing and the hanger had been cut off the chassis. It works fine and has a large fluid capacity.

[Steve Simmons]

TCs don't have a reputation for brake failure, so I don't consider this a worthwhile effort or expense. And if there was a brake issue, the hand brake on a TC is extremely effective so you can stop the car pretty quickly that way. If it makes you feel better to have dual-circuit brakes then it can be done. I think there are two guys who have done a conversion using VW parts, one of them as Stephen notes above.

[lasloja]

Thank you for your in put.

[Tom Lange, MGT Repair]

Using DOT5 silicone brake fluid in a new TC master with a bronze bore (or a more expensive cast bronze master cylinder and bronze wheel cylinders) is a sure way never to have brake failure.

A dual master cylinder is not of much help unless you truly isolate the front and rear brake systems as two separate circuits.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

[lasloja]

Thank you Tom that was my idea.

[Tom Lange, MGT Repair]

Remember that oil leakage at the rear hubs is the mail reason why the rear brakes stop working. Get the hub nuts with integral seals.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

[lasloja]

Thank you

[Ray White]

I am hoping that the advice Tom has given above will pay dividends when I get my TC on the road. I have installed the hub nuts with integral seals from Roger Furneaux which I regard as a useful improvement over the original design.

As part of a comprehensive rebuild I am installing a bronze master cylinder and bronze wheel cylinders with new drums and shoes all round. I have opted for the 'Alfin' style drums which are cast iron with aluminium cooling fins. Yes, it's all expensive but probably not a sensible area for cost cutting - which is why I have also chosen to fit the improved Peter Edney brake linings.

As far as the hand brake is concerned I think it is important that the ratchet holds well. Mine was "wobbly" and could be easily knocked off by accident so I have fixed it.

[Steve Simmons]

Sealed axle nuts are a huge improvement. I installed Bob Grunau's setup with tapered axles, so no more worry about snapping axle shafts and the axles are machined so the seals ride directly on them (no speedi sleeves). I've run them probably 30,000 miles so far and not a drop yet.

[Ray White]

Sealed axle nuts are a huge improvement. I installed Bob Grunau's setup with tapered axles, so no more worry about snapping axle shafts and the axles are machined so the seals ride directly on them (no speedi sleeves). I've run them probably 30,000 miles so far and not a drop yet.

Talking about half shaft failure...I am a little concerned about the reputation these cars seem to have. On inspecting my shafts I noticed some slight burring which I believe to be the beginnings of a "step". Nothing much at this stage but the question is how long before I am left wishing I had replaced them?. I assume the tapered shafts are an improvement so would I be advised to change mine?

[Steve Simmons]

The original axles are known to snap, and there really isn't any warning. Bob's tapered replacements are virtually unbreakable, and combined with his sealed nuts and bearings the rear axle becomes a very low maintenance item. You original hubs can be sent to him for machining to fit the new axles, which use a far more robust interface between axle and hub. Or have your local machine shop machine them for you. Or, Bob can supply brand new hubs pre-installed on the axles. I believe Roger F also sells upgraded axles but I don't know much about them. I think Doug Pelton might also but I don't know who his manufacturer is so you would have to check with him. In any case, this is an upgrade I put in the "no brainer" category. Nothing about the look, sound or feel of the car changes, but you eliminate a known weakness.

[Ray White]

I agree the upgrade is worthwhile however the shipping costs from Canada are eye watering. I will be taking up this matter with Roger F. in Devon next time I speak to him.

[EdCallo]

I got my taper axles with hubs installed from Abington Spares. As there are right here in Connecticut I just drove over and picked them up. No shipping cost