MG T-ABC

Have some questions. I've bought a hi-torque starter motor for an engine I'm rebuilding...thought it would be a simple bolt-in task but now I'm not sure. If anyone has used one of these I'd appreciate some feedback. Did you have to die grind openings for the allen head bolts so they'd fit?

Here's what I've got:

I have used a similar motor on my Etype, but not on the TC (in fact, for this summer I have so far only used my crank on the TC since I am too lazy to get under it and sort out the starter motor connection!). All this said, I would not start cutting away at your engine bellhousing to accommodate those bolts. As I recall, that metal flange being held buy those two bolts is only a mounting plate with many different possible positions to accommodate many applications of the motor. I would see if you could acquire two large flat-head machine screw / bolts to replace the existing two bolts. Then, drill out the needed existing holes on the mounting plate to accommodate the new bolts so that the resulting bolt-head profile is flat. It appears the mounting plate has plenty of "meat" on it and reaming it a tad at the mounting surface could be possible. Also, from my experience with the EType, be prepared to inspect the installation distance of the motor with respect to its ability to fully retract from the ring gear on the flywheel. On my EType I had to fashion a thin metal shim to allow the new starter motor to sit further out.

Tom,

Thanks for your input. I've received basically the same from another who ran into the problem and there is plenty of meat to the flange to countersink either these allen bolts or another type of screw. Several also recommended turning down the head of the allen bolt a bit to reduce the amount taken from the flange.

I'll probably end up doing a combination of the two.

Gene

Gene,
couple comments:
1-why do you need a high torque starter motor? Original TD or TC starters work fine, even on a high compression engine race car.
2-Original starter pulls pinion forward to mate with beveled teeth on rear of ringgear. Your high torque starter looks like it it pushes backwards so will engage with square side of front of ringgear. Will this be a problem?

Bob,

1. Why? Grin...because I want one! With Frank's exhaust header things are tight down there and this will fit just fine.

2. You're correct, it does push in, but the ring gear on the flywheel I'm getting is cut to work with it according to Manley so all should be well. I'll make sure to double check it when I get the flywheel though.

Gene

Gene,
Did you get this sorted out, I purchased the same starter. Also do you not bypass the solenoid and hook up a starter switch to the small terminal?

Yep, got it taken care of today. Had my friend open up the two holes I'm going to use to allow the allen bolts to sit all the way down...he used a mill so they're sitting on a flat surface. There's plenty of meat there to work with so strength shouldn't be affected.

I'm going to hook a wire to the small solenoid terminal on the side of the starter and run that to one side of either a TD/TF switch or a momentary push button switch on the dash. The other side of the switch will go to 12 volts. When the solenoid is engaged the starter will spin (checked out on the bench already).

Gene

Thanks Gene, keep me posted and I will do the same,curious how this turns out.
Mike Castle

Hi Gene,
Installed the starter and temporarily mounted a switch, down the road will go the MGA pull cable switch route. Works great so far no issues.

Mike Castle

Hi Gene, this will not directly help you, but I helped Powerlite develop a Hitorque starter to fit my Xpag in a TD, this was in June last year. anybody requiring info email George Shackleton at sales@powerlite-units.com <sales@powerlite-units.com>

I have some pics of fitted unit which I will try to upload if there any requests to my email.
all the best Ed.

Mike...great news!

I'll install the pull starter too - after thinking it over for a while I've decided even a small kid can push a button and if the car is in gear it can have disastrous results.

Ed, if you can post some photos on this thread please do. How did you work the starter solenoid? Just connected it to the TD switch?

Hi Gene, " pics, one from on top shewing the solenoid link, the rest of the wireing as origional including origional mechanical high amp starter switch. the second from below showing the 10mm allen screw required to fix starter to bell housing as there is not room to work a spanner or socket against chassis.
the allen screw [ cap head] is 10mm x 25 mm x 1.5 pitch
the allen key [ 8mm] is a standard one cut down to 100mm long leg & 30mm short leg.
this will allow just enough clearance to engage the screw head without removing the web on the starter, and allow clearance against the chassis for fully tightening. The only mod I did to the starter was to make up a rubber bung for the drain hole which is now on the top to stop ingress of any fluids dirt etc.

Ed,

Thanks for the photos. I've always used allen head bolts on the starter...so much easier to get them in and out!

I'll have to wire the starter a little differently than you. The TC always has 12 volts on the starter since the cable runs directly from the battery to it. I'll break the green jumper wire in half and run it to a TD starter switch - when I pull the starter I'll engage the solenoid and the 12v will spin the starter...same idea.

Gene

Ed,

Thanks for the photos. I've always used allen head bolts on the starter...so much easier to get them in and out!

I'll have to wire the starter a little differently than you. The TC always has 12 volts on the starter since the cable runs directly from the battery to it. I'll break the green jumper wire in half and run it to a TD starter switch - when I pull the starter I'll engage the solenoid and the 12v will spin the starter...same idea.

Gene