MG T-ABC

Recent discussions on http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mg-tabc/info
regarding modifications, included the following:

1 VW STEERING – Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it!
2 NEW STUB AXLES IN THE FRONT SPINDLES – Invisible and safer.
3 TAPERED BEARINGS IN THE FRONT HUBS - Invisible
4 TAPERED BEARINGS ON THE PINON GEAR – Invisible and more durable.
5 MODERN TAPERED BEARINGS ON THE RING GEAR - Invisible
6 NUTS WITH LIP SEAL ON REAR AXLES – Invisible and better seal.
7 MODERN SEALED BEARINGS ON REAR AXLES – Invisible and better seal.
8 MODERN STEEL REAR AXLES – Invisible and stronger.
9 LED TAIL LIGHTS – Invisible except when used.
10 SPIN ON OIL FILTER – Simply better filtering.
11 PETRONIX IGNITION – Almost invisible and less maintenance.
12 CHROME/STAINLESS STEEL WIRE WHEELS – Chrome not correct, but…..
13 FIRESTONE TIRES – Less expensive and better wear than original.
14 COMBINATION OIL PRESSURE/TEMP GAUGE – Just more practical.
15 RELOCATE OIL PRESSURE/TEMP GAUGE AND AMPS GAUGE (SWITCH LOCATIONS) - This can be argued, but it made sense to me since the gauge nearest the steering wheel is obscured by the left hand when driving.
16 FOUR CORE RADIATOR – Almost invisible, but superior cooling.
17 WATER PUMP WITH BRONZE 4 BLADE IMPELLER – Invisible with better cooling.
18 MGB FAN BLADE – Noticeable but less vibration and better cooling.
19 FLEXIBLE OIL LINES FROM OIL PUMP TO FILTER TO BLOCK – Noticeable, but more durable.
20 BROOKLANDS SCREENS – Noticeable but Period Correct.
21 BROOKLANDS STEERING WHEEL – Noticeable but Period Correct.
22 LUGGAGE RACK – Period correct accessory.
23 TALLER GEAR RATIO IN PUMPKIN – Invisible but more practical on today’s highways.
24 ENGINE BORED – Invisible and was necessary.
25 ROLLER CAM? – I have not done this yet, but plan to. Invisible but more durable and more power.
26 IMPROVED REAR MAIN BEARING SEAL – Invisible but better seal.
27 MIDGE ON RADIATOR CAP – Period Accessory.
28 POLYURETHANE BUSHING IN SPRINGS – Almost invisible, but better handling.
29 TRIPOD HEADLIGHTS – Period accessory.
30 DUO TONE PAINT – Prewar style. No excuse, I just liked it.
31 BONNET STRAP – Period correct for racing, and I happen to like it.
32 solid state conversion to fuel pump offered by Burlen Fuel Systems
33 solid state voltage regulator conversion by Bob Jeffers of Wilton Auto Electric in 2009
34 Panhard rods, front and rear to keep lateral suspension movement to a minimum.
35 Replacement of the tie rod ends with rose joints for added security and steering feel
36 replace felt with rubber
37 add center console (as described on "Resources" page on this website
38 modify thermostat housing to accept modern thermostat

I can say that I've also done some of these mods to my TC, all of them virtually invisible, but the change in the performance and reliability of the car has to be experienced before judging the mods.

Boring/sleeving to 1466ccs, along with the 4.625 rear gear transforms the car. The better axles, tapered, sealed bearings, the poly shackle bushings, and the spin-on oil filter enhance reliability and make servicing easier. I've gone to the Crane Cam, but wish I'd done the roller conversion, as I think performance and wear would be enhanced.

Most of these cannot be seen, and (since I have a spare block) are reversible. But why would I want to reverse them? At a birthday party (for me), quite some time ago, it was agreed that I would be buried in the beast!!

I've done several of those mods as well. But I do have a few thoughts of some of them.

1. I have a Datsun steering box in my car and it does make steering much lighter and easier to track down the highway. But the steering ratio is far less than original and makes it less sporty. The VW kit has an even lower ration than mine. These kits are a major change from the original character of the car, but do have advantages in other areas.

11. While I do have electronic ignition on one of my MGs, I don't really see the need for it. A lot of conversions seem to be done to remedy a worn or improperly rebuild distributor and often he owner has never experienced an original system properly rebuilt and set up. In my own experience, the difference in performance between a sloppy distributor rebuild and a proper one is staggering. That, and when the EI unit fails, there is no fixing it without a spare kit in the car. Points can usually be coaxed along for weeks if needed before failing completely.

12. According to a major spoke manufacturer, and contrary to popular belief, stainless spokes are actually more likely to break than mild steel. If you drive a lot of hard miles, I'd stay with the original spec here. But most people aren't that hard on their TCs these days so I suppose it doesn't much matter.

13. Last time I checked, Dunlop B5 was cheaper than the Firestones. I'm not sure why the price of the Firestones went up so much. Firestones do seem to last a bit longer though, and their slightly larger size gives a little smoother ride and lower RPMs at the sake of original looks and ease of rear tire removal.

16. The quality of the core is more important than anything. Always specify the best your radiator shop can buy. It's worth the money. A top notch 3-row will outperform a cheap thicker core. I have a really good original style core in my TC and it never even hints at overheating.

17. I think he meant 6-blade bronze impeller.

29. I have 8" tripod headlamps and they are beautiful. With halogen bulbs they are also very bright. BUT... they have no focus. It's just a big round field of light. Maybe someone has made a better reflector since I bought mine.

31. Has anyone found a way to keep those bonnet straps from wearing through the paint?

32-33. I'm not a solid state fan, personally. In my eye there is something to be said for mechanical parts that outlive their intended service interval by years, even decades. I think a big part of it is how much the car is driven. For a garage queen, solid state will probably last forever whereas mechanical points may suffer corrosion. In constant use, the mechanical components do seem to thrive. I do have a solid state conversion fuel pump on my MGB, and the only difference I could tell is that when it died, no amount of banging got it going again, unlike the points-equipped unit it replaced. But I may just be soured because I've suffered two terminal breakdowns in my MGs due to electronics that weren't in the original design.

37. The cockpit is so small already, I'd have to lose 20 pounds to fit a center console!

38. I've considered this, but it doesn't address the bypass issue. I wish someone would come up with an affordable solution for this.

Steve,

Not sure if it's what you consider an affordable solution but Tom Lange has a stainless steel thermostat housing with a replaceable thermostat: http://mgtrepair.net/Thermostat.html

I've seen them but like most others it doesn't seem to address the bypass issue other than to restrict it. The original thermostat had a sliding skirt that would allow full flow when cold and little to no flow when warm.

Only the Moss item seems to use the original design, and at $129 it isn't unreasonably priced, but like the original it is not a replaceable thermostat so you have to buy the whole unit when the thermostat goes bad. I guess that's only once per decade or so but it would be nice to be able to replace it on the road without having to carry another $129 unit as a spare.

Here are some additional mods:
Alfin brake drums (I believe essential) Grunau version.
Conversion to negative ground to use modern accessories.
Larger or auxiliary brake lights, often a large LED behind (or in front of) the spare tire.
I believe that the combination oil pressure / temp gage is not original in most cars.
Low oil pressure warning buzzer or light.
Additional auxiliary modern fuel pump with filter, usually mounted under the fender below the passenger door.
Self canceling turn signal or warning buzzer.
Fire extinguisher.


Norman TC6864

Here are all the mods that I can think of, no matter how small, that I've done to my own car. All reversible, many just for safety.

Alfin brake drums
Bonded brake shoes
Tapered rear axles with sealed nuts / bearings
Oversized stub axles
LED D-lamp inserts
Period correct Jaeger water temperature gauge
Grab handle for passenger
Leather steering wheel wrap (done to hide cracked wheel but I found that I like it)
Hydraulic brake lamp switch
Extended brake master cylinder nut
8/39 rear end gears (from TA)
Cupro brake pipe (instead of steel) with extra long stainless steel flare nuts
Stainless steel pipe wrap (instead of mild steel)
Wired headlamps to work with key off (but not driving lamp, etc)
Turn signals (by using dual filament running lamp bulbs and EXU turn signal switch)
High compression pistons, +40
Runbaken Oil Coil
Rebuilt water pump with sealed bearing and 6-blade bronze impeller
Alpine diaphragm clutch
Lightened flywheel
Re-curved distributor
Datsun steering box (was already on the car, might not do it again)
Tripod headlamps with halogen bulbs