MG T-ABC

So we got Bill's TC moving after a 40 year nap...go here if you would like to see the moment..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97G-RTs ... vF1IvslpOQ

I have the wheel up as far as it will go and as you can see there isn't much room for getting your foot in there. Gene suggested removing and replacing the wheel when getting in or out. I like the idea. I'm wondering if anybody has used a bicycle quick release in place of the clamp bolt to make it handy?

I have seen it done. I'm not sure if it was from a seat collar, or if it was from a wheel hub and then cut and re-threaded. But I would be sure to buy a steel one in case you need to thread it.

I've thought about doing this many times, and since i have a box full of old quick release skewers somewhere, maybe I'll look into it.

[img][img][/img][/img]I have done it, used a Shimano bicycle seat post clamp, it fits in the recess of the boss and is a great help for getting in/out with height over 6' 4"! Also best anti theft gadget in the style of mr. bean!
Alternatively you can use a smaller dia Moto Lita wheel ( from Moss) which has a screw ring to tighten down the boss on the rod. Has two, features , smaller dia and removable ! ( but not original :-(. )
Dirk

Digby Elliott, near Salisbury UK has a nice quick release unit available for original type steering wheels.
Whatever you use, it should clamp with enough force to hold the wheel secure and tight on the splines.
Tom Wilson

Are you talking about completely removing the wheel or just sliding it in and out some? To give more leg room entering and exiting shift your butt to the left. Even sitting on the tunnel if you need to will be easier than removing the wheel entirely each time. Buying a smaller wheel will help as well. Original wheel is 17" OD and I have a 15" Moto-Lita wood rim wheel. Save the original for shows if you want.

There is a 15 1/2" Brooklands Wheel available that you can put in that will give you more room. It's available on e-bay from a seller in GB. As soon as I find an extra $400.00 I'm going to order one. I have the same problem as you do. For right now try leaning your upper torso as far left as you can then slide your feet in. When getting out do the same thing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231065257418?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Because I am 6'4" I was keen to get a Brooklands 15" steering wheel to give me a little more leg room while driving. I suppose it helps getting in and out, but because my knees are up so high I needed the additional room between the rim and my thighs for driving. Fortunately I am slim (mostly) so that helps.
I bought the wheel last year when I was in the UK direct from the maker and it is now fitted.
I just want to comment about the use of quick release clamps and my experience with my original wheel when I tried to go down that track. An easily removable wheel would be so handy for some maintenance in addition to getting in and out of the car. I have many friends with TCs and I believe that most of their steering wheels are not tight on the spline and that is not a good thing, as Tom intimates. I made one but I could not get it to clamp sufficiently tightly on the spline no matter how much I tightened it and I gave up. My steering column is pushed up as high as it will go towards the dashboard to assist with my leg room issues and getting in/out. I was worried that clamp lever might foul the bottom of the dashboard and lock or reduce the steering 'if' the steering wheel moved on the spline after it was tightened while driving. Of course this could have disastrous results.
I hope I have explained my concerns clearly

I use my (adapted) Shimano seat post clamp and have no problems with clamping down.
Always check after clamping if the wheel does not move by hard pulling upwards.
Indeed, the wheel/boss needs the clearance from the dash, mine is also as high up as possible but enough "meat" on the spline left with the nescessary clearance from the clamp and the dash. The handle of the clamp should face towards the driver, away from the dash in the clamped -down position! After while you do know its minimum "up" position.
Could it be that the spline or the boss has excessive wear on those wheels that cannot be clamped down??
PS: My steering rod is new (VW conversion)

I am sure you are right Dirk. My new Brooklands wheel was quite loose in the original TC steering shaft and I measured the shaft and there was only .002" variation. I bit the bullet and decided to close the gap in the boss by using a vice carefully and with the jaws covered. Initially the gap just went back to the same as before so I squeezed a little tighter. It is now a tight fit to install and you cannot remove it without using something to open the split. Yesterday I made a wedge which is fitted to a 4" g clamp and that make removal reasonably simple, but of course not as convenient as a bicycle type clamp.