MG T-ABC

I am challenged in comfortably driving TCs because I am unfortunately 6'5" tall. Prior attempts to gain more legroom have entailed reducing padding in back rests, and shoving the seats as far back as possible. Didn't accomplish much improvement. Exploring the possibility of bucket seats has so far proved impossible as I can't find anywhere appropriate seats that will work. Barry Walker Motors in the UK could not help me. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions? Thanks.

I put a set of Factory Five Cobra in a MG TD. They are very vintage looking bucket seats. They cost approximately $500 a set. Search for factory Five Cobra website.

Steve Baker in the UK sells leather bucket seats designed to fit pre and early post war MGs. Info can be found at
http://www.stevebakermg.co.uk Not cheap but what is these days!
Cheers Ian

Some years back, I used a pair from an Austin Healy. Worked fine
Carl

You'll not gain any room by using bucket seats unless you severely indent the wheel well behind the seat. The backrest on the TC seat is cut-out around it, bucket seats aren't. I know...Sprite seats in one of mine.

a TD and also Austin Healy is not a TC!
Right you are Gene, I have the same problem and now have a pair of fine refurbished Cobra bisquit leather seats for sale:-((

Seats are not that hard to make.

Pictures of my MG TD with Factory Five bucket seats

Another photo of the bucket seats

I,m not sure if it was on this forum site or another [Totally T Type 2 ] but I seem to remember that the simple solution was to remove steering wheel and instead of bolt there was a quick release adapted fron a bicycle hub ,the type that has L shaped lever that one just rotates out from hub and just remove steering wheel to get out.
I am not quite 6 ft and find getting in and out a bit of a tight squeeze but worst of all is when i fit rear weather curtains with hood up if caught in severe wet weather.
Only have had to do this once or twice and find hood up is sufficient protection if wearing a jacket.
Perhaps removal of steering wheel would be a simpler and cheaper option.
Other early british cars had nice leather bucket at floor level such as Rileys but would be hard to find any set spare these days ,perhaps MG y salloons coud fit as I owned a Y tourer for a while and were similar to the riley but did not have the pleats where Riley seats did

see also post mon. jun 02 2014 removable steering wheel etc.

I do recall Dirk's Shimano solution, now that I am reminded.

Normans pics of his TD seats show exactly the problem with the TC wheel arch we have been discussing as a problem. My pic 3 from top shows how I was able to cheat a good 3-4 inches out of the wheel arch with the curved back seat bases, and still have a good reclined driving position. Of course the TC wheel arch extends well past the step up for the cargo area behind the seats, while the TD, etc do not.

I made some bucket seats for the Watney Stilton Special. Was not too hard. I used a J type seat as a pattern along with a picture of a seat sitting on the shelf of the factory racing shop in the 1930's. The issue became the inner fender well and the padding of the seat. The first time the seat was done the padding was very thick pushing the owner up and forward. Some was removed and the situation was a little better. More over a bit needed to be removed out of the inner fender well from the floor up about 24'' to allow the seat to move 2-3'' further back. We decided not to do that at the time but now that the car is finished, This still may be in the works..

Some pictures attached.

David- Nice. I have seen this sort of sided/unsided seats, and have been considering doing something similar. I've also seen in various early specials/racers a type of seat similar to these in that the back is rounded, but the aluminum frame has what appears to be a removable/replaceable sort of pad made from regular upholstery materials (and lightly padded) that goes onto the whole width of the shaped upright part of the seat back-- with no covering at all on the back part. And, the seat bottom appears more conventional; or like ours, with a bottom cushion that's removable from the frame (and with a plywood bottom), and when in place locks the seat into position (or where the sliders go.) In the red Lotus seat I show above (perhaps yours, too) the seat bottom plywood actually holds the seat in place with a t-bolt type arrangement going through holes through the floor. Those late '50's Lotus Sports Racers generally have adjustable pedals, but the seats also usually have three sets of holes: normal, close 4 short legs, and as far back as possible 4 very long legs.

I am only 6'2" but I recognize the problem. My solution was to make a new seat backrest.
1/2 inch plywood cut to pattern of old backrest. 1x1 hardwood reinforcer glued to top front of backrest (also gives finished seat a better shape) Butt cutout on each side at the bottom of the backrest plywood with canvas glued to the front of the wood. (this gives a support surface for the foam, but is much softer than pushing your butt against the plywood). Upholstery foam covers the wood backrest, then a Moss leather kit. Lightly tack the leather cover over backrest while you add or remove foam to get a seat that is comfortable and looks good. (not a straight across bench, there should be a curve for each person) Removing the spring case and horsehair and using foam (with the butt cutouts) gives you several inches. I Also removed the jack, and removed the seat adjustment brackets (wingnuts etc) at the top of the backrest so the backrest rests directly against the seat brackets welded into the top of the rear wheel arches. I also made seat bottoms of plywood and foam. No seat slides, the seat bottoms are directly on the floorboards. This has made a huge difference. I now have plenty of leg and arm room, and the seats are very comfortable for me. We have driven the car from Los Angeles to Monterrey Ca, Park City Utah, etc.

gene olson
TC 3353

I just installed a set of Kirkly seats in the red TC. I would take a photo but the car has been stored in the trailer for the winter and can't get a good photo in there. If I was to do it again I may go with the Bug-Eye type instead as they look more "vintage" and have a flat bottom with make installation easier (prices area about the same). Of course the Kirkly is a better racing seat with a hole for the sub belt, etc. I can take some photos in the spring if anyone is still interested then.

Fit didn't seem to be an issue with me at only 5' 11" and shrinking

I took the padding out of the squab, to give my thigh clearance and sit 'in' the car. This way she still looks original. Btw, Im 6ft1