MG T-ABC

I'm wondering what is the best way to clean up and paint the leaf springs for my TC restoration. I don't really see the point in having them taken apart just to clean/paint them as I did for my Morgan. I'm not sure that sand blasting them is a good idea as I suspect grit would work it's way in between the leaves. Right?

My best thought is to wire wheel them off, prime and paint.

Am I on the right track, any other ideas or thoughts please?
Thanks, Pat

I disassembled mine, blasted them clean and coated with POR15. After many thousands of miles they still look good. Some people say not to sand blast the springs as it will weaken them, and they are probably right, but when a leaf is caked with heavy grease, road grime and rust I don't see an easier way to get it clean. Did the same on my '39 truck and it saved me an entire day of scraping grime just on the one spring.

Thanks Steve, but when you say you disassembled yours I assume you mean leaf by leaf ? That is sort of what I was hoping to avoid as my springs are very clean already. Do you think I'd be okay with a wire brush and POR15?

Yes, I did take them down to individual leafs (leaves?). POR15 is great over rust or bare metal, but if there is any oil or grease, it will peel off in sheets. I think I'd find a really tough spray paint.

That said, it wasn't a big job to take them apart. I considered putting teflon liners between each leaf but it was so slick with the POR15 on there I figured I'd give it a try just with grease. So far no complaints, and the front end did ride smoother after the project.

There are 2 camps on lubricating springs, 1 is to use something like motorcycle (spray can) chain lube. Jack it up to relax the springs, and do it often. 2 is how the British, and myself do it; as leaf springs are an important part of the cars road report. You take the springs apart, clean them with some type of wire brush, and clean them up until clean enough to paint. Get some (not spray can) cold galvanizing compound paint (rustoleum makes one with around 95% zinc) and paint them with a brush. Next day, or maybe before the galvanizing paint? paint the edges black if you want, or just get to it and mix powdered graphite with a caulking tube of 100% silicon grease (standard tube will do both front or both rear springs ). About 4 shot glasses of powdered graphite mixed into the silicone. Spread it everywhere but the top and bottom and re-assemble. For a period look, forget the leather spring diapers and wrap it in Densyl Tape to keep the water out and grease in. here is a link on a slightly different topic, but gets to the same process, except for the tape. http://ttypes.org/ttt2/?s=galvafroid&submit=Search

When you buy new springs you'll find nine times out of ten they've simply been given a quick spray over with an anti-corrosion paint, and that's how the manufacturers expect you to fit them.

Before considering dismantling springs and painting each leaf, it might be instructive to watch this....

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I've just overhauled my own and after cleaning down with a (power) wire brush, gave them a couple of spray coats of a direct-to-metal chassis paint. When they're on the car I'll lube them with penetrating oil. If you're going to bind them with Denso tape (very effective), there's not much point in painting them at all.

Nick

I was taught to soak them in old engine oil and brush on every few months. I think the reason to use old engine oil is the high carbon content.

Just to be clear on the Denso tape; it is for use with the thick (silicon grease with graphite) method of lubing leaf springs. Of course when using the thin lube method you will want easy access, so you can do it often. The cold galvanizing paint (zinc) is odd stuff, and not like normal paint. It is only recommended for use with thick lube method.