MG T-ABC

I've read the article (http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/diff.htm) written on how to swap out the TC diff for a donor one from a Sprite, which is what I'm trying to do but hit a bit of a snag (see attached pic). FYI, the diff is 4.222 ratio.

The casing of my new donor diff does not line up with the existing studs, I knew that would happen from the article.

The problem I have is that two of the reinforcing "ribs" ON the caseing align DIRECTLY over top of where two TC studs (bolts) are located, so I am unable to drill the flange for the new stud spacing as told to do in those two areas both sides.

But wait, I have an idea I need some feed back on please! As the "studs" (bolds) in the TC casing are just bolts threaded in to the flange of the casing it's self, is there any reason I could not re drill/tap the casing of the TC diff carrier it's self, to match those of my donor diff?

Any other tips are welcome!
Thanks, Pat

I found out that I do not have the correct diff I should be looking for one from a Morris, and I got one for a sprite (which puzzles me a bit as it was listed as one that would work on the line to the "how to" article.. anyone happen to have a spare?
Thanks, Pat

Pat...refer to my email.
Gene

I believe the Sprite / Midget diff unit can be made to work. I'm no expert on the subject however.

G,day.No idea what model my diff is from but is of the type of TD -TF -Morris. [splits in half up the middle ]
What has been done is the ends sawn off and TC mounts welded on .
I,m no welder but neatly done and seems to work ok and is silent as a mouse
Had a slight oil leak and was going to fit modern conversion but have no clue as to similarities to TC half shafts so have put up with slght leak.
Funny thing is has improved so perhaps oil level dropped enough.
Leak was coming where spinner attaches and dribbled down inner spokes,not much so at least spokes have no rust.[A thimble full of oil will leave a huge mess ]
Have been told a simple solution was to belt a bath plug inside hub???
Anyway getting back to diff That is how mine was done and seems to work ok.
One day will test speed with a GPS but seems happy at 4200 revs and close to 60mph but as speedo works off gearbox may not be true speed.
I like to travel at about 3500 revs on the quieter roads but bit hard on single lane highways when trucks up your behind .Ian

Ian, if you have TC axles and splined hubs, the oil is likely seeping out 'tween the splines. If you pull the axles out and hold the splined end up to the light, you will see daylight between the splines. Clean all the grease/lube out of the backside of the splined hub and put a couple of good thick layers of hi temp silicone gasket sealant on the back side of the hub, allow to dry well and re assemble. Remember to used sealant on the flange between the splined hub and the bearing holder too. All should be well.

Will get around to it one day.Bath tub plug sounds much easier.
I guessed was weeping between splines. Liked the idea of modern seal conversion but not sure if my half shafts the same as original TC but a rag once every now and then does the job and inside brake drum clean.
One day will work out what the ratio is .ian

It's easy to work out the diff ratio. Make a mark on the prop and align it with something. I've used a piece of welding rod fixed to the chassis before. Then mark the hub and see how many turns the prop has to do to get a full turn at the hub. It's not easy to measure the last part turn but as you know what options are available you will be able to work out which you have.