MG T-ABC

Folks,
I acquired the red 49 TC that was on Craigslist a couple of weeks ago.
http://bringatrailer.com/2015/10/01/60- ... 949-mg-tc/
A complete unplanned spontaneous purchase prompted by my wife, all done while leaving on vacation and sitting in the airport waiting for an international flight. Bored, I perused BAT on my iPad and showed her the pics and she fell in love and urged me to just buy it, it'll be fun.

The whole purchase took 10 minutes on the phone, my son mailed a check and arranged transport while we were away. The car arrived before we returned.
I had my worries, the car was in La Jolla, CA and I'm in NH, paid asking price w/o a PPI, which goes entirely against my grain, but the pictures just spoke to us . . .

This gamble paid off, the car arrived and presented precisely as described! Certainly it has patina, but it is totally complete, the bumpers came with it, it is an EXU car, matching numbers, and the engine is free and turns over.
It was stored very dry, no mold, all wood upon initial inspection is solid, frame is rust free, doors close with two clicks.
There are a few medallions on the car. Of interest is one from the F.C.C.A. for a 1st Place finish in a rally from 1952. FCCA is the Four Cylinder Club of America which was founded in southern CA in 1951.
In this article there's a line about a red TC . . . makes me wonder if this car is "that" car?
http://www.fourcylinderclubhistory.com/ ... -the-1950s

So far I've only been inspecting the car, pulled the plugs and bore scoped the engine with a video scope. There's no rust on the cylinder walls!!! Engine oil is clean, and coolant was drained.

My plan for the winter is to get it running well, rebuild the suspension and brakes and reupholster the seat. All the vinyl is intact and untorn, and looks very original. My goal is mechanically perfect and strong runner, without a body restoration. I don't want a show piece, but prefer the old car look as it's natural.

I'll be asking lots of questions as to the best source for some of the parts, although I'm in the car restoration business, it's all with BMWs and Porsches. As we all know there are good vendors and bad, I prefer to spend more and not have issues with cheap parts!

Mario Langsten
Bedford, NH

Hi Mario, congratulations! Looks like you got a good one. This will certainly be a different challenge than a Porsche or BMW, but these are pretty tough little cars and the engine is simple so if it turns then it will probably run. Nothing different about waking it up than the usual fluid changes, coolant flushes, etc except perhaps for the SU carbs being different than your other cars. Might want to prime the entire oil system including the pump before cranking since it has sat for so long. And watch carefully for fuel leaks because the carbs are right over the exhaust system. There are several places for them to leak including the bottom where the mixture nut is, and out the tickler pins on top if the float valve gets stuck or a float sinks. Obviously new fuel hoses are a priority.

I'd love to see a photo of that FCCA plaque!

Nice car...saw it on BAT myself but already have a couple of TC's...smile. Also read The Red Car (is there anyone our age who hasn't?).

First choice for parts right now is Doug Pelton (www.fromtheframeup.com) . Doug has restored several TC's himself and started a cottage business several years ago to ensure the 'best' parts for at the best price for our cars.

Next is www.abingdonsparesllc.com which is now under new management and has a new website. The original company was always responsive and had parts that Moss couldn't provide and it looks like the new owner is continuing the same business style. Abingdon Spares also caters to the TD and TF which Doug doesn't do.

Last is www.mossmotors.com . Good enough and always there but Doug and Abingdon can be counted on for parts equal to, or better, than Moss.

Enjoy the car!

Gene

Mario-
Have fun,
Duncan-

Than you all, good comments and thoughts.
I have an engine that turns freely and now builds oil pressure after I backfilled the oil pump to prime it. A digital borescope of the cylinders shows no rust! Amazing after sitting for 35 years. The engine cranks with the starter, though the starter needs a rebuild. With a battery connected, lights work, the horns both function, after numerous blows they came into their own and now toot like their supposed to.

I have a bunch of manuals and books coming, but could use some simple tips and descriptions.

The ignition and light switch and key like Ebay auction number 221939787766
Is the key supposed to rotate, mine only inserts, possibly the wrong key, but it's what came with the car.
What turns on the ignition?

The forward cowl valance filler panel in front of the grill is fiberglass. That can't be original for 1949?

More as I tinker away!

Mario

Yes the key should turn, the key number should be on the face of the ignition barrel so easy to check if you have the correct one.

And no, the front filler panel (splash apron) should be steel. A fibreglass one came with my TA together with two metal ones, shipping to the States would be a bit expensive though!

There are a number of guys who will make keys from code, the code stamped on the lock cylinder. Pete Groh comes to mind immediately. No need to replace the switch and cylinder if the new key works - give the number here, and someone may have one to lend you (non-original US blanks are on eBay aplenty). For a test start you can run a jumper from the coil to the battery.