MG T-ABC

BRAKE TECH TIP OF THE DAY

Problem: While installing new brake shoes you find you cannot get the brake drum on.

Cause: This is a common problem. Is it because the pads are too thick, adjust cams have not been turned back, shoes installed incorrectly, or what else? Ever have to sand the new shoe to get it to fit? (Don't do it!)

Solution: Try bleeding one of the brake wheel cylinder to allow the cylinder pistons to compress more. Sure worked for FTFU today after scratching our heads.

Curious, was there something keeping pressure in your wheel cylinder that wouldn't allow you to retract it fully?
Another scenario when installing new shoes is finding that the ends of the pad material is too thick to fit into the shoe because the arc of the pad is larger than the arc in the drum. The center may fit fine but the ends just won't go. I've run into this issue on a lot of drum brake-equipped cars and trucks.
In this instance, Arcing the pads allows easy fitting of the drums, and ensures you have 100% contact for maximum braking. The problem is, most brake shops aren't allowed to do this anymore because of the EPA's issues with brake dust (or so I was told by a brake re-lining shop). Old school shops will still do it if you know how to ask though.

- Steve Simmons, TC8975

Steve & All,  I had both front brakes that would not take the drum.  The only thing I did was to bleed small amount off front right.  Both front drums went on as expected, adjusted fine and work properly with brake pedal.  I understand when the pedal is released the pressure is supposed to be released.  The visual que was seeing that each brake shoe pin was not in contact with the adjustment cam, so the wheel cylinder pistons were not fully compressed and I could not do it manually.  Can’t explain why as the pedal and brakes work correctly assembled.  This is why I offer this as a tip.  It may work for others.