MG T-ABC

When removing rear hub it came off easily (worn out!) but left the shaft in place and it is stuck in the diff. Is it ok to drift it out from the other side? Thanks.

That's probably what I would do, but as gently as you can get away with. I can't think of another way to do it since the diff assembly won't come out with the shaft in place.

Yep, that's the only way to get it out as far as I know. get a heavy rod, square bar or length of pipe about 40"-48" long, No larger than 3/4ths the diameter of the 1/2 shaft. Make sure it's clean so you don't introduce debris into the mix and also square not pointed or chisel ended on the contact end. Remove the opposite good shaft and hub. Now slide your rod in place until it contacts the stuck shaft roughly taking notice that it seems level with the world. Grab your BFH and give the rod a good solid whack. Don't be timid! Rarely is more than one strong blow needed to free the spines from each other. If it doesn't squirt out the other side where you can grab it, you should now be able to tap the bar to ease it out to that point. It only needs about 4" movement at most to free up. Most are not stuck very solidly, the fact that your hub came off without the shaft in place and you've been driving the car may mean that the spline tried to migrate in a little deeper than normal into the diiffy female splines. Still should not be much of a problem!

God, I just realized I could have written an erotic answer to this so easily...

Marv TC5141, '53 TD, '76 MGB

Thanks Marv. that's tomorrow morning then! Good job you just managed to keep it clean!

Hard to describe but in recently overhauling my diff I found that, on both sides, the outer part of the hub was solidly stuck to the inner part (bearing housing). I put the brake drum on backwards, then the spinner. I then used three short lengths of threaded bar through three of the stud holes in the drum, with a nut positioned on each bar inside the drum, placed the inner end of each bar on a corresponding stud and used the nuts to put force on the drum and pull out the outer hub with the axle shaft attached. A do it yourself puller if you can follow the description. You may need to put a pair of lock nuts on the outer end of each bar to hold it steady as you turn the inner nut to apply the force.

Didja' get it out MaxMG? Any problems?

I sheared an original TC5141 (1948) vintage shaft on Lady Di (my wife's name for the car) and the method I described worked like a champ on the long end of the shaft still in the diffy tube. Also did the same thing on a TD some years back, same procedure, same results. It just squirted right out.

Marv
TC5141

Hi Marv. Been busy getting the boat (yes, another expensive toy!) ready today as the weather too good for garage work. However, gales and rain tomorrow for the English Channel so I'll get on with it. Whole job started 'cause oil leak of course....did the other side no probs with parts from Mad Metrics but this side needs new shaft and hub as well. Last time I did MG back axle I was a teenager, 1/2 shaft broke at my girlfriends house and I had to stay the night. Great!

Ha! I always knew MGs were good for attracting females, but you took it a step farther! Well done, sir.

Rarely do I laugh out loud at an email or similar posting, this is twice now you've made me smile Steve!

MaxMG. Yep, you done good on parts sourcing, I also bought the anti-leak rear axle upgrade from Roger along with a few other of his "Goodies".

Marv

What is likely the cause of this? Any likely suspects? Splines, bearing, or something gone snap? Just curious.

Duncan:
My humble opinion is it was a combination of spline wear and perhaps loose tolerances when new. A failing bearing could possibly have put some slight bending moment into the splines trying to make them wobble and therefore increasing spine wear. Don't think anything snapped or else MaxMG would have said so. If the external splines on the hub are in good shape and the shaft doesn't press on and take the full tonnage of properly applied pressure to do so, MaxMG could save some coins by having the shaft welded to the hub and get some additional life out of it. Some on this forum will cringe and say NAY! to that. However there are possibly just as many that will say YEA! and that they've done it and have had some fair degree of success. A proper weld shop can perform the welding without compromising the structural integrity of the half shaft. Not a problem.

If MaxMG is going to upgrade to the taper shafts and hubs then all the above is moot!

Just my 2 cents worth....

Marv TC5141

Just one more note, I installed tapered axles with new hubs, modern seals, sealed bearings, etc. Got them from Bob G with hubs already installed. It's one of the best things I've done to the car. Expensive, but worth every penny. After well over 20K miles, still not a drop of oil in the brakes. And broken axles are one less thing I have to worry about.

Steve:
I agree wholeheartedly, when and if my straight shaft(s) shear again, I will also upgrade to the tapered units. For now they're going in place with the upgraded Nitrided units and with the anti leak/tapered roller bearing mods from Roger Furneaux.

On another thought on Duncan's inquiry, the possibility is that the half shaft and hub were not properly mated fully from the Git-Go would have driven the half shaft deeper than normal into the diffy splines possibly causing a slight interference fit. A lot of possibilities!!!!

Marv TC5141

Marv & Co,
The shaft flew out like a rat out of a drainpipe, through the garage wall and killed the neighbour's cat. Seriously though, it was well stuck and jammed again in the oil slinger, so it's a well past it shaft!
Ian (MaxMG)

Max:
Are you saying the outside diameter of the splines were jammed into the oil slinger but there was still sufficient protrusion of the spines to make contact with the hub? If so, had you noticed any unusual metal to metal noises when driving?
Or, are you saying the end of the shaft was so far into the tube that it was resting on the far side of the oil slinger? If so, you would have experienced and exhibited the same conditions as a sheared shaft. No car movement! That would have been way deeper than normal or that one would even imagine physically possible. Even my half shaft that sheared last fall was still resting on the oil slinger and that was with 3 inches or so of broken shaft still in the disconnected hub. Any sign of galling or spline damage? Was this the nearside or offside shaft?

ET need more data!

Marv

Marv,
It was the inner splines that had the damage/wear which when the shaft hit the slinger on the way out caused the jam. Damaged the slinger but didn't matter as fitted seal kit. I don't think the shaft (left hand viewing car from front) would have lasted much longer so am really pleased the job is done. Also no girlfriend to visit, not allowed anymore.
Ian

OK, now it's clear. Yep, you don't need that oil slinger with the new seal kit from Roger. It won't hurt to leave it in. No effect on the new kit.
My condolences or congratulations on the ex-girlfriend ----- whichever is appropriate!!! With the car and the boat now serviceable or soon to be, a new girlfriend may soon be in the picture!

Take care- Cheers
Marv

P.S. Too bad about the neighbors cat!!!!!

Funny, I ran into the same problem on the right side of my car when I was taking that stuff apart as well. The hub just slid off of the half shaft. Turns out the shaft wasn't stuck quite as nicely as yours though, it just came off when I put in a long socket extension and noodled around until I figured it was on the shaft because of length, and gave it a little love tap with an orange mallet.

Glad to hear yours was easier Kameron. It goes against the grain to bash ancient machinery with a hammer!