MG T-ABC

I found a few oddities with a front axle I just stripped. Due to difficulty getting photos to show on Yahoo, I've posted them on the TABC web site in the Discussion Forum area. Link here:
http://www.mg-tabc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1133

If anyone has any opinions on what they see, I'd love to hear from you. Reply directly to the forum thread if you like, or here if it's easier.

I don t remember the shrunk in washers being there originally either Steve.

Ian Thomson

Steve,
Looks like a bodged lipstick coverup repair on a damaged axle. Seems to me that if damage was from a wreck that frame would be impacted too. Any sign of repaired frame damage?Doubt that visible patches are a Factory fix as car build date  predates wide spread introduction & evolution of epoxies as adhesives and fillers.As patches are in high stress areas where cracks could be expected to migrate, suspect  areas should be deep crack tested, radiographic/X-ray, not Magna-flux which is test  for surface micro cracks/flaws.
Bill 

I noted a possible minor repair on the left front tip of the frame but it could be nothing. I'll be able to see better once the frame is stripped. Which begs the question... Acid dip or media blasting for the frame? Perhaps I'll look for another axle just in case.

Steve,
Personally,  would opt for blasting in isolated areas likely  to be impacted by collision damage. If the f. axle was damaged enough to require severe bodged  straightening, cracking may have ensued leading to attempts to grind cracks to ground zero & fill with some sort of grout. It might be possible to date fix if it can be determined that, in fact, epoxy mix was used as epoxy did not come into wide spread public usage until late 60 s mid 70 sAlso, if axle was pretzeled to such an extent that in straightening that stress cracks resulted, it may be possible that frame was deemed unsalvageable & replaced. Is correct chassis # in place on horn?
Bill

Steve,

If you decide to media blast the frame be sure to protect the chassis number from being obliterated. I have seen a couple such.

The media used on my frame (50 years ago!) was powdered red brick. It did the job without disturbing the metal. After pointing out the chassis number the shop said they will use the brick media...soft.

BIll Traill

All numbers are present and correct. The car was taken off the road more than 40 years ago for unknown reasons. The body is a bit rotten but the frame looks very nice overall.

Steve, I would opt for chemical stripping - it s what I always use. Then I go the next step and take the time to fine wire brush (Drexel tool) and sand all surfaces. One can really see detail then, plus you ll discover the many makers stamps that the guys making the parts stamped onto them.

I also use powder coating. The shop that does this uses the newer technology that allows better offgassing, and the film is a bit more flexible. Removes the risk of moisture being trapped. There is also a zinc primer coat put on before the finish black.

Instead of sand blasting I use vapor blasting, usually with glass beads. Amazing how much better the results are without the mess, plus there is n damage to the surfaces. Search it on the web to see systems. I bought one from Raptor.

I now have 13 axles on the bench about to go to the chassis shop to verify straightness, angles, and test for cracks. 11 are MMMs, 2 TCs. One of the TCs is bent, happened in the early 1940s when the car was rolled after a hill climb. It s salvageable.

Tom Wilson