Sump filter gasket.

[jddevel]

The gasget in my TC sump gasket having disintigrated it is difficult to establish what it was/is made of. It appears to be a form of fibre but I feel that one I can easily tap out with cork would do. Comments please.

[Duncan M]

Skip Burns did a write up on such. Probably other articles on doing it correctly...

https://chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/ ... _leak.html

[Steve Simmons]

As far as I know, it's just regular gasket paper. I would use sealer so you don't have problems priming the pump on startup.

[frenchblatter]

It's the fitting of the rope ends that's the trick. We used to soak the rope in hot water and then press both ends into the groove leaving the ends sticking up and then fit the sump. We only applied red hermatite (the original, no longer available) to one side, the sump side.

The benefit of the rope seals is that if they leak the oil swells the rope and they self seal.

[jddevel]

Not sure I made myself clear. It`s the gasket in the sump oil pick up filter I`m refering to. I think nitrile cork will do unless advised otherwise.

[Steve Simmons]

I understood what you meant. I'll see if I can find a spare sub with an original gasket in it to double check my memory. I think the ultimate goal here is just to make sure you don't have any air leaks since that is a negative pressure area and any air you suck in could affect the prime of the pump.

[Tom Lange, MGT Repair]

I'm afraid I am still not confident which gasket you mean. In the sump on the pick-up there is a gasket between the cap and the housing; there is also a paper gasket between the pick-up flange and the sump itself. The former is a thin, fiber gasket, and although it will be hard to cut, a cork gasket will work fine. The other gasket must be paper, to prevent air leaks.,

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

[jddevel]

Thanks Steve and Tom. Yes it`s the gasket between the pick up lid and the housing I`m refering to as I commented earlier it appeared to be fibrous but wasn`t sure. The flange gasket I recognize as a paper one. As you remark it`s the air leak that must be avoided. Would be a pity to go to graet lengths and a air leak cause pumping problems. Would the addition of a littlle sealer be "belt and braces"?

[Tom Lange, MGT Repair]

There is no need for sealer on the fiber gasket, since it is always immersed in oil. I do use sealant on the paper gasket, but very sparingly so it does not clog up the oil delivery hole.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair

[Steve Simmons]

Oh boy, I guess I didn't understand after all. I thought you meant between the pipe and the oil pan. I agree with Tom, the pickup / filter screen is always immersed in oil. Or at least we hope so! I would not seal this. Gasket only. I think I would also avoid cork because fiber or paper would be more durable, and not compress as much.

[Duncan M]

J-
You mean the sorta oval shaped gasket with three holes? https://mossmotors.com/gasket-oil-pick-up
Or the round TD assembly gasket? The Moss catalog is great for identifying a part in question.

If you are not familiar with the non hardening gasket dressings like (universal blue) Hylomar or the Permatex equivalent #85420 then your TC is missing out. Takes some getting used to for applying to gaskets. It is an oil/fuel resistant dressing that goes on thinly over all surfaces of the paper or cork gasket. Great for coolant system gaskets, too. Use gloves. Greatly extends the lifetime of the gasket, and makes it easier to remove down the road. Also the perfect choice for sealing the threads of the TC damper end caps, because in 20 years you will still be able to remove the caps without destroying them. Hylomar/Rolls Royce even says somehwere to use it on certain threaded fittings to aid sealing when disassembly will be required later on. Not for use on brake line fittings, of course.

The pitfalls of silicone sealant are not to be confused with the superior type of silicone
"Roadster Gaskets" that Tom Lange has available-- for the rocker cover and tappet cover. https://mgtrepair.net/Roadster.html