MG T-ABC

I'm sure it's been discussed before but for the life of me I can't find it when I search for it. Was there any cloth or rubber padding between the chassis and body tub? And/or has anyone used any type of material between the body tub and chassis? I need to raise my tub a bit and was wondering if I should use thick washers like I did on a '55 TF I restored a few years ago or if I should use a different material? Thanks, Lou

Yes, I am sure that this has also been discussed in this forum earlier, but let me venture an attempt here.

The mounting pad material used by the factory, between the body tub and the chassis frame, was pre-soaked black felt pads each approximately 3/16" thick with holes for the mounting bolts to penetrate. (currently available from Doug Pelton - "From The Frame Up" or you may fabricate your own). These pads were placed onto the six (6) mounting points of the chassis frame when the body tub was lowered and could also be used as shims for door alignment.

If the tub required any adjustment, for example alignment of the doors clearance with the tub door openings, then more thickness of the padding material could be added at points that would raise a part of the tub. The pads will compress slightly when the body tub settles in, so the placement of additional material may be required after a few hours - or days - in order to obtain enough pad thickness for proper door alignment. (Some manuals also mention checking the tightness of the mounting bolts at annual intervals.)

Best to do the adjustment with the pads for door alignment when the rolling chassis is on the ground with the tyres fully inflated, since the flexing of the chassis frame will also affect the door alignment. Also, at some time after the body tub and chassis have been placed into service, there may be additional alignment adjustment required for the doors. Shim padding is to be added where required to raise a mounting point in order to allow door alignment. As I recall the process, during the recent frame off restoration, the prime points of padding adjustment were at the places where the rear door pillar, or farther back, at the bottom of the side curtain storage meet the frame.

You might use a "fender washer" for shim adjustment, but the reason for felt padding was so that the frame would not squeak when it flexed - although there are enough other noises happening that the squeaks are drowned out.

I too have found evidence to confirm that felt was indeed used between body and chassis. But, I cant help but think using felt isn't the right material then nor now as it is likely to absorb moisture and .... rust! Yes, perhaps not a lot, but I'd hate to think all that effort and every time you go through a puddle you take on water and never to be released! To avoid this insane thoughts I've used rubber or neoprene sheets as anti-squeak and as lifting and balancing pads for the 6 body points

It's the same problem with the felt that is used between the front quarter panels and the top of the wood frame where the windscreen mounts go. I used the same solution as Chris, i.e. neoprene sheets. Just make sure that you get the closed cell version otherwise you are just adding a sponge!

Fantastic information! Thanks so much! I will use neoprene and large washers where needed. Now if I could only figure out why the lower edge of the bonnet is approx 1/2" away from the wing. The body is temporarily bolted directly to the chassis so it's as low as it could be. The front wing is also bolted directly to the chassis as it should be but yet the side panel of the bonnet is as I said a 1/2" short from the wing. I'm thinking the outer cowl wood was installed to high causing the bonnet to sit to high. Looks like I'm going to have to disassemble it to the point that I can reach the outer cowl wood to either shave it down a bit or lower it and drill new holes for the wood screws. Either way I have a big task waiting for me. Gees, this is fun!

This is an interesting post as I am due to fit a new body to my TC. I am sure there are often problems with alignment but yours sounds like a right headache.

Assuming the bonnet is level and correctly aligned with the radiator, reducing the height of the scuttle will presumably cause the bonnet sides to slant backwards relative to the wing/chassis.? If you want to lower the bonnet 1/2" overall then I am thinking the radiator will also need to be lowered by the same amount.

I agree with your assessment. I've decided to stop what I'm doing and start over. I have everything loose where I can move different panels, brackets and latches around to see what's up. I learned a while back that if things are going right - back off, walk away and when I do get back to it it'll look differently and will likely work out the way it should. So, maybe tomorrow I'll get in the garage and take another look at it. Of course I'll be laying in bed thinking about it instead of sleeping but what the heck, that's part of building a car!