Rad shell & slats

[Ray White]

I have tried to offer the holes in the slats up to the studs in the rad shell but they don't all line up.

I am worried that bending the studs will cause damage to the outside chrome finish. Has anyone else had this problem? Is it possible to bend the studs without doing damage to the new chrome?

I can't see how they could be heated without distorting the shell or discolouring it. I imagine it would be possible to modify the slats but that would be a bodge. It seems what ever I need to do would be a bodge... and that is not my style at all.

I really don't know what to do. Take it back to the chrome platers?

[Steve Simmons]

Were the studs removed or replaced at one time? Are these the same slats that came off this shell? I agree with your reluctance to bend them. They separate from the shell fairly easily. After enlarging your photo I see that they are really far off. I don't see any way to fix this other than moving the studs, which means re-chroming, or finding a set of slats that fits assuming these are replacements.

[Rob Reilly]

Not having yet disassembled my rad and shell, I am not necessarily understanding the problem, but I can make one comment. If you have to heat up the chrome a little bit and it turns blue, you can polish it out with #000 super fine steel wool.

[bloodysalmon]

Having made up 5 radiators in the past few years I can say Ray that you should have done a 1st fit of your slats BEFORE any rechroming while making sure each stud fits into each slat hole, 8 in all I think. So next time do the same as your 1st fit on all your body parts prior to painting. Should also do a 1st fit (loose) if you rebuild your windscreen too.
What I have done is to use 'araldite' to fix back in place as bending the studs just doesnt work. Another option is to file (thin-round) the orbits in the slats holes too if they are just a mill or 2 out.

[Ray White]

Hi Chris; Steve and Rob.

The slats are original to the shell. I did make sure they fitted before handing over to the platers because I had to make some small welding repairs... but I expect the platers removed the studs to get better access to the shell side as it needed a little bit of straightening out. The shell was also broken in the usual weak point at the crank handle "arch" and they repaired that too. Another repair they did was to solder the tang that secures the nose piece and badge. It is such a shame because in all other respects the standard of workmanship is excellent.

I have spoken to 'Pat' at Derby plating and he said he would look into the matter and get back to me.

I will keep you posted.

[stephen stierman]

The studs are quite fragile and heating is sure to damage the chrome. Could you get a few pieces of thin scrap and drill a hole to secure it to the stud and a second hole for a small nut and bolt to secure it to the slats? Sort of offsetting a few of the securing points? I know it is an odd repair, but it wouldn't do any damage.

[Ray White]

The studs are quite fragile and heating is sure to damage the chrome. Could you get a few pieces of thin scrap and drill a hole to secure it to the stud and a second hole for a small nut and bolt to secure it to the slats? Sort of offsetting a few of the securing points? I know it is an odd repair, but it wouldn't do any damage.

That is worth a try. Stephen. I quite like that idea.

I Have spoken to the platers today (Had to ring them again ) They suggested they would elongate the holes in the slats. I explained that the studs were no where near the holes so I was advised to take the shell and grille to them and they will look at it. I am not really expecting a result.

[stephen stierman]

I had mine repaired and replated many years ago and the studs were soldered but the one at the bottom above the crank hole has come adrift. I tried some JB Weld that held for awhile but has since come off so epoxy is probably not a good solution. You are really just trying to keep the slats from rattling so offsetting a bit might work.

[Ray White]

Job done! My thanks to everyone who helped with ideas etc. The work involved a fair bit of fettling but I persevered with it. I didn't keep a note of how many hours but, as they say, it's all good fun!

[Mark McCombs]

Steve,
I have a hairline crack just starting in my chrome shell that I thought I would silver solder (from the inside obviously).

Sounds like you think this is a bad idea?

My chrome bike pipes get awfully hot and if they turn blue, its just a good polish to remove it. I also successfully silver soldered a thin crack in my old pair of headlight shells (again from the inside).

What am I missing?

Thanks!

[stephen stierman]

Mark,
If you silver soldered some headlight shells without problem, you might give soldering your shell a go. I just wouldn't advise someone who just spent big dollars to get a shell repaired and plated to try and remove and resolder threaded studs without damage.

Also since you are a motorcycle guy, isn't a motorcycle exhaust somewhat cooler in temperature than what is needed to silver solder? Perhaps less damaging to chrome?

[Mark McCombs]

Steve

I think they are both similar at around 1200F. My shell is 'ok', certainly not wearing a new chrome job so that would be a big factor.

You can tell if one if my bikes is running lean as the pipes blue quicker, but it will polish off.

[stephen stierman]

So Ray, how did you finally get it all to fit together?

[Ray White]

So Ray, how did you finally get it all to fit together?

Basically I file enlarged the holes in the top and bottom frames and a bit from the slats where required until they went over the studs. The middle top stud was so far out it missed the frame altogether but I was able to use a washer as an off set clamp a bit like you suggested. The end result is not exactly pretty but it won't be seen and works O.K.

[stephen stierman]

If you don't see it, it doesn't matter!

[bloodysalmon]

Having made up 5 radiators in the past few years I can say Ray that you should have done a 1st fit of your slats BEFORE any rechroming while making sure each stud fits into each slat hole, 8 in all I think. So next time do the same as your 1st fit on all your body parts prior to painting. Should also do a 1st fit (loose) if you rebuild your windscreen too.
What I have done is to use 'araldite' to fix back in place as bending the studs just doesnt work. Another option is to file (thin-round) the orbits in the slats holes too if they are just a mill or 2 out.

I knew a little filing would do the job Ray, always worked for me ...

[Ray White]

Thanks Chris. I knew I could rely on you!