MG T-ABC

Hi All,

Lots of progress on getting TC1943 back on the road. Down to installing various bits and once carbs back from Joe Curto I'll be good to go.

Help needed on any tips for reinstalling my rebuilt starter. Oh my gosh, what a pain so far and I have to believe I am missing something here. Removed it out the bottom but having little luck with the reverse. Any hints would be greatly appreciated. All manifolds off. Exhaust moved out of the way. Typed in a search on the forum and found nothing.

Thanks in advance,

Lynn

You have my sympathies for persevering with the original starter. In my opinion such difficulties point to a poor design. I gave up with the original hex bolts and substituted some cap head bolts which make fitting much easier ...but then I am not bothered about strict originality.

In the end I was unable to use the original starter with my four branch extractor manifold so I replaced it with a new, smaller high torque starter...and I couldn't be happier.

I find it easiest to remove from the top. I drop the header pipe and turn the block drain tap about half a turn. I also remove the starter switch. My exhaust manifold is using bolts, not studs so that probably gives me a lot more wiggle room. Even with all that it's tight, but it does come out if I turn the starter to the perfect angle, then pull it out. It's also worth mentioning that I have a Datson steering box which may give a little more clearance than the original.

It is quite tight in that area, between starter switch, exhaust and steering. I have had the starter in and out without touching the exhaust manifold nuts. I probably had the BC box out for adjustments/inspection. Good time to service both-- if one needs attention. 3 bolts holding on the BC box to chassis. Bolt heads accessible in back of front wheel.

You difinitely want to be using some anti-seize lubricant on the starter (attachment) bolt threads. If you did not rebuild the starter, keep in mind the starter switch lever assembly is quite adjustable. It can be rotated to several positions, and someone may not have it oriented correctly for a TC. Of course the picture is upside down.

Had a chat with a local person as well as sending this question out to all of you. It was suggested that the install would be quite easy with the starter switch removed and a jack with a hunk of wood on top to apply just a little upward pressure on the engine. That fraction of an inch made installation from the bottom take all of about 30 seconds.

Again, very little pressure as you do not want to do any damage. I paid attention to how much the engine moved and started very slowly. Pressure was applied at the rear of the motor. After first attempted pressure application the engine move maybe 3/16 of an inch. Gave it a go from under the car and the starter slid right in with very little issue. I thought that I likely would have to loosen the front motor mounts but turned out not to be. I could not believe how little movement was required to make what had been not possible quite easy.

All manifolds off the car. Steering system in the car with nothing loosened or moved.

Hope this helps anyone else with this chore to deal with. I almost cheered when it slid into place. I installed a single bolt and tightened it up. Got out of my overalls and had a cup of tea and a cookie in relief.

Lynn

Just had an opportunity to remove mine. I was loathe to remove the exhaust. I undid the BC steering box mount and removed the drag link from the drop arm (the drag link will hit the front of the sump and not allow the box to come up high enough). Also needed to remove the steering tube clamp in the car but not the wheel. Held the steering box up with a zip tie.
Was able to remove the starter out the top with the cable switch still attached.
Now if only there was an easier way to deal with the clutch spring mount...

I replaced the two small screws at the back of the switch with two BA studs and double nuts. Made refitting the switch much easier.