MG T-ABC

I am about to fit the rolled edge to the new dashboard and would like any advice on how it's done.

For example, should I use small chrome/brass screws? if so, what size?. OR brass nails?

Also, how many are used? How far apart?

Should I drill holes first ...and what size?.

As I am only going to get one shot at this I want to get it right...

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Ray.

I refer you to your previous post
I'd suggest forming the strips to the dash contour before drilling the holes for the screws; if done first the strips will tend to kink when bending.

On my TA there are steel nails about 4" apart except at the extreme curved ends where they are 2" apart.
It appears to me like the factory workman did not pre-drill holes, he just hammered the nails right through the aluminum. In one place he must have did one wrong because there is another nail close by.

My apologies, Antijam. I am getting old and memory not what it was. Your patience is appreciated..

Rob. I would probably not do it like that...

THANKS GUYS.

Ray White wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 19, 2023 5:31 am

My apologies, Antijam. I am getting old and memory not what it was. Your patience is appreciated..

No problem Ray. I find that at 80 I'm grateful for any help I can get.....

Let me correct myself. The material is plated brass, not aluminum.
It is a very thin plate, and my steel wool polishing today cut right through it.

As such, the workman probably did not just hammer the nails through, but as the spacing is random, I think it was not done by a machinist in a drill press on flat stock. I suspect the body worker formed the piece against the dash while he attached the nails, and may have used an alloy steel punch to punch the holes.

Does this help?

Tim Jackson wrote: ↑

Tue Mar 21, 2023 1:58 am

Does this help?Dash - fitting chrome beading.pdf

Yes thank you. Like Antijam you have already posted this to an earlier request for help that I had forgotten about.. Sorry for that.

Ray.

Apparently in the TA days it was different, nothing but flat head steel box nails all around.
Some of the holes in the molding are swaged or flared downward, like you get from punch work.
But round or pan head self tapping screws makes more sense. I think that is what I will do.

Apparently in the TA days it was different, nothing but flat head steel box nails all around.
Some of the holes in the molding are swaged or flared downward, like you get from punch work.
But round or pan head self tapping screws makes more sense. I think that is what I will do.