MG T-ABC

After the world's longest tub rebuild And the last year of driving around with rear fenders only, I am finally moving in to assembling my front fenders to the tub.

I know the best way to do this is to preassemble the front fender To the running board and offer it up as a complete assembly. So 1st question, Is there a pad that goes Between the bottom Of the inside of the fender and the top of the fender Support brace (at the fender lamp)?

Any other assembly tips in this area appreciated, I bought the car disassembled so have no reference.

Short answer is yes. You may vary the thickness of the pad so your front fenders sit proud. If you don't put a pad between the fender and brace, you may get that tired, droopy look.

Additionally there is a steel plate below the thick pad, shaped like the pad and drilled as req'd.

Thanks, Peter,

Is the metal pad sheet metal thickness or thicker?

The plate is just under 1/8" (7/64") according to my mic.
Moss part # 261-055. I'm sure Doug has them as well.

Thanks Peter,

Got the plates. I am assuming there is a single bolt that goes thru the top of the brace, thru the under pad plate, and thru the fender....

Isn't that bolt blocking the mounting of the wing lamp?

Sorry for missing what is probably obvious!

Hi Mark -
Yes, a bolt goes thru the brace, plate & Pad & fender and then into the front hole in the wing light (tapped threads inside the wing light) of course the wing light has its own (thin) pad as well. The rear bolt for the wing light passes thru plate & pad, etc. but not the brace. These are 1/4" BSF bolts: the front being 1 1/4" and the rear 1" in length. I usually use the longer for both just for ease of assy. Can be very finickey getting everything lined up. TIP: enlarge the hole that passes the wire(s) thru to the lamp, otherwise it can get bound up.
TCpeTe

Thanks Pete

So obvious now that you explained it so clearly!

It helps too now that I've now pulled the front wing lamps out of the box they have been in (and out of mind) for many years.

Should be an interesting weekend, the first time the front fenders have been on since 1962 (when I was two years old).

And here it is.

Only concern is I had to switch the headlamp brackets to get the fender to fit flush against the brackets, and now the chrome bolts at the rad have the nut in front...Any thoughts on that??

Thanks for the help, cant believe I brought this car home in pieces in July, 1999 and suddenly its a car.

Yes, turn the bolts around................

HI, Steve-

If only...

Those bolts are shouldered to keep from over-compressing slot cut in them when tightened and so will only fit one way.

I'll take a fresh look now that the fenders are in place.

Well this explains it.

Bought these from O'connor classics many years ago, not from my car as mine were missing. Maybe the factory tweaked it like that, hard to see any indication of a hit.

Would anyone have a pair, or just the Left (passenger side)?

I am thinking there should be a bit of forward offset bend (like my Right side, about 1/8") but can anyone please confirm this?

Thanks

They are handed, and they do have an offset to them. You could modify them but I would first look for some other reason why things aren't lining up. They can probably be bent by using heat. I've heard of it being done but have never tried it myself. It's possible one of them is indeed bent.

Thanks, Steve,

The left side that doesn't line up is clearly offset much more that the right, which does fit nicely with its minor offset.

As purchased, they had beautiful green paint on them but appeared to have never been used, so maybe they're reproductions that couldn't be used on that car, either.

Maybe you can figure out where exactly they are bent. If they can't be safely straightened, a light grinding of the base where it sits on the wing might solve the issue. Too much and you'll shorten it, but worst case you could put a bit of extra rubber under the other end of the base to compensate. Might not take much. Better than throwing it away.

They could well be factory original, and from a bent donor car. Agree that getting it red hot and bending may be possible, using well applied leverage.

Since I figured I had nothing to lose, I made a cut 3/4 across the width of the bracket (which is hollow) just inside of where the headlight mounting boss is located. I figured this would allow some flexibility over just heating it and bending and hoping for the best.

Clamped in a heavy vice, was able to easily bend the bracket over to achieve the same 1/8'' offset, (reduced from 3/8 offset) effectively just closing the cut, then welding the seam closed.

This whole process took less than an hour and with the corrected offset that matches the other bracket, it fits easily without stress. It seems to me the bracket is cast steel which was easy to work with.

Thanks for the thoughts on the issue, after buying it disassembled so many years ago, its now evident I own a TC.