front wheel bearings tc
front wheel bearings tc
how to change front wheel bearings on tc can any body recommend a good vidio
Re: front wheel bearings tc
why you want to change wheel bearings? Is there a concerning symptom?
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Steve Simmons
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Re: front wheel bearings tc
I don't know of a video but I can whip one out next week if it helps. Are you going with ball bearings or a tapered bearing conversion?
Re: front wheel bearings tc
hi steve i am going to fit ball bearings many thanks tc trevSteve Simmons wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2024 5:50 pmI don't know of a video but I can whip one out next week if it helps. Are you going with ball bearings or a tapered bearing conversion?
Re: front wheel bearings tc
The front hubs on a TC need to be checked for wear. They wear where the bearings press in. Often worn hubs will seem to be good when you press in the bearings (normal resistance) but once the bearings are in place they are no longer a tight fit. That is where they wear. Symptoms of this problem would be almost exactly the same as worn bearings. Would also mimic a loose nut. Once the hub is worn in this way there is no way to properly fix them. Bearing gap adhesives are useless. New front hubs run about $180 each.
You can actually drive the car with badly worn front hubs as described above, and not really notice there is a problem. The worn hubs will cause the steering to be poor, as the car wanders all over the road.
You can actually drive the car with badly worn front hubs as described above, and not really notice there is a problem. The worn hubs will cause the steering to be poor, as the car wanders all over the road.
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Steve Simmons
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- Location: Southern California
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Re: front wheel bearings tc
In a nutshell...
1) Remove the split pin, castle nut and large washer. (nuts are handed - right side is right hand thread, left side is left hand thread)
2) Withdraw the hub from the spindle. There are tools specifically made to remove splined hubs but if you don't have one, you can carefully use a standard puller, or make one from an old knockoff. Sometimes you can tap the rear of the knockoff ears to slowly remove it.
3) Remove the grease seal from the rear of the hub.
4) Remove the rear bearing by tapping with a long punch. There is a cutout on each side of the hub shoulder to give access to the outer race of the bearing. You will need to slide the spacer between the bearings off to the side to see them. If discarding the old bearings, you can also tap them out from the inner race (this may damage the bearing so don't do it if you plan to re-use). Remove the spacer and then the outer bearing. Try to remove the bearings as straight as possible to prevent damaging the hub.
5) Clean the spindle and inspect for cracks. Clean the hub of old grease and inspect for damage.
6) Pack the new bearings with grease and put a bit inside the hub to help them slide in easier.
7) Press the outer bearing in using a press if possible. Press only on the outer race. A large socket works well as a pressing tool. It should fit on the outer race and nothing else, and be slightly smaller in overall diameter so it doesn't get stuck in the hub. Some people use a bench vise and a socket. You can tap them in with a punch if you're very careful. Or a socket or other suitable device with a hammer, again if you're very careful.
8 ) Insert the bearing spacer and press the rear bearing in place. Ensure that both bearings are FULLY seated against the lip in the hub.
9) Install a new grease seal in the rear of the hub, grease the spindle, and re-install the hub.
10) Torque the nut fully and insert a new split pin.
1) Remove the split pin, castle nut and large washer. (nuts are handed - right side is right hand thread, left side is left hand thread)
2) Withdraw the hub from the spindle. There are tools specifically made to remove splined hubs but if you don't have one, you can carefully use a standard puller, or make one from an old knockoff. Sometimes you can tap the rear of the knockoff ears to slowly remove it.
3) Remove the grease seal from the rear of the hub.
4) Remove the rear bearing by tapping with a long punch. There is a cutout on each side of the hub shoulder to give access to the outer race of the bearing. You will need to slide the spacer between the bearings off to the side to see them. If discarding the old bearings, you can also tap them out from the inner race (this may damage the bearing so don't do it if you plan to re-use). Remove the spacer and then the outer bearing. Try to remove the bearings as straight as possible to prevent damaging the hub.
5) Clean the spindle and inspect for cracks. Clean the hub of old grease and inspect for damage.
6) Pack the new bearings with grease and put a bit inside the hub to help them slide in easier.
7) Press the outer bearing in using a press if possible. Press only on the outer race. A large socket works well as a pressing tool. It should fit on the outer race and nothing else, and be slightly smaller in overall diameter so it doesn't get stuck in the hub. Some people use a bench vise and a socket. You can tap them in with a punch if you're very careful. Or a socket or other suitable device with a hammer, again if you're very careful.
8 ) Insert the bearing spacer and press the rear bearing in place. Ensure that both bearings are FULLY seated against the lip in the hub.
9) Install a new grease seal in the rear of the hub, grease the spindle, and re-install the hub.
10) Torque the nut fully and insert a new split pin.