Kill Switch and Fusible Link?

[SteveW]

I'm currently sorting out the wiring on my TC prior to a first engine start.

I'm considering installing two items that were not on the original, for safety reasons

i) A fusible link so that the battery is disconnected in the event of a major electrical fault. I installed one of these on my kit car when I was building it and it cuts everything off except the battery to starter motor cable (which you cannot put a fuse into because of the high amp rating). Has anyone done this, and if so, where did you put it.

ii) A kill switch with a key that I can take away to prevent somone hot wiring the car if I leave it somewhere. Same question. Has anyone done this and, if so, where did you put it. I guess that the alternative is to do the old trick of removing the rotor arm.

Also, could someone let me know the lengths of the battery to starter cable/wire, the battery to body earth wire and the body to engine block to earth wire. I have a local auto electrics store that can make these to measure for less money that the usual MGTC parts suppliers.

Regards
Steve

[johnnie.w]

Steve I would hesitate to ask your store to make the cables , an inch too short and they are useless, over compensate and they are too long. The exact length will depend on the location of the battery isolator.As for position there are two main considerations, safety or security.Here in the UK certainly for competition work it is best to have the isolator very prominently situated , from a security point of view best if it is hidden behind the dash board as in my TC
The cables are so easily made with 170 amp red or black cable , and the appropriate 8.00mm ring terminals and plated brass battery terminals
For a glimpse of the competition I was meaning may I suggest that you Google VSCC Welsh Trial or Hereford Trial, also Lake District Trial, all good fun
Best wishes

[johnnie.w]

Sorry I should have suggested viewing the afore mentioned Trials on Youtube

[Duncan M]

If someone is intent on stealing your TC, the simplist method would probably be to winch it onto a trailer. That is, if they can figure out how to release the parking brake. Jumper cable to get around a keyed cutout would take as long is it takes to peel off insulation with a knife.

The only problem TC's ever had Historically with overheating wires would come from a parked car-- with cutout points somehow stuck shut on the regulator. A simple battery cutout, at a battery terminal, would prevent that. Another problem can arise from wires coming loose from their connections behind the dash. In the age of Loctite, there is really no excuse for grub screws becoming loose.

[Rob Reilly]

One of my Jags has an inline fuse holder in the ignition circuit under the dashboard and I can take out the fuse and reconnect the holder. No thief would think of a missing fuse.

[SteveW]

Thanks for the advice. Just to be clear, what amperage cable should I be using for the battery to starter? Is 170A sufficient or should it be the next one up?

[Rob Reilly]

I have #4 gauge cable, which is pretty standard for car battery to starter.

[i.thomson]

Steve, I would be wary of fusing the ignition circuit as fuses fail for no apparent reason and to have the engine stop at awkward moment, think overtaking in heavy traffic, could be more dangerous than your car's security is worth. Fitting a battery switch with a removable key, however, is a good idea, especially as it gives peace of mind when the car is locked up in it's cosy garage during the winter months (cue comments those who use their cars all year round). I put mine in the earth return (pos. on Pos. earth cars) to, perhaps, deter those who try to hot wire the car to start it.
Ian