TC Door repair
- timandgerda
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 12:50 pm
- Location: Derbyshire/UK
TC Door repair
The bottom section of my TC door are badly pitted on the inside. I have tried an initial repair near the hinge section and although this went ok I think the whole lower 2 inches need to be replaced to do a proper job. I stepped the joint on the first repair (I have a joggler tool) but want to know if anyone has had better results with but welds or simple overlaps. I am guessing a full seam weld is the way to go? I have access to brazing gear if that is better but plan to use a mig to keep distortion to a minimum. Any advise on how best to proceed would be welcome as I don't want to ruin usable doors and am concerned about getting the curves correct without distortion.
Re: TC Door repair
My humble opinion speaking only from similar repairs I did on a MGA project about 15 years ago was a stitch weld on lowest heat necessary to get a good weld. then go back over and stitch weld between the previous welds until the seam is complete. I only welded 3/4ths to an inch each time with a gap of twice that much. Turned out good with no metal distortion. A little light grinding and sanding, not much more than spot putty needed on final priming and sanding. primed it grey, spot puttied, blocked it down, primed it tan , spot puttied and blocked. ect. ect. after the forth time you couldn't tell it was ever repaired from the "I see you" side. A stepped seam repair is always better in my opinion than a butt weld or overlap repair. Less chance of distortion.
Marv TC5141
Marv TC5141
- stephen stierman
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:12 pm
- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: TC Door repair
I always trim my panel and patch very carefully and butt weld using my MIG. With an overlap there is too much of a step and there really is no need to joggle if you fit things up properly prior to welding. You can use magnets to hold the panels together. Start by just making a spot weld every inch or so then very very short welds between moving around allowing things to cool. When you have a complete weld grind it flush and then a little hammer and dolly work to smooth it up. A thin coat of filler will still be needed but not as much as with an overlap. Brazing will cause much more warping. The attached photo shows my completed tub, both doors have been repaired with a patch the full length a couple of inches up, the rear quarters were new with the elbow section butt welded into the new panel and also both sides of the scuttle have been repaired under thw windshield frame plinths.
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