Body iron connections

[timandgerda]

Just a quick question that I am sure someone will know the answer. I am fitting the bull-horn iron (not sure of its real name) that goes across the body tub behind the seats - 2 wood screws go in to the wood near where the upper body door hinge fits but what goes through the hole adjacent to them at 90 degrees? Is it a bolt that passes thorough the rear wheel arch and forms part of the rear wing attachment or is it a rivet similar to the three that secure the door pillar reinforcement plate to the arch? If a bolt what size - the hole looks like it would be 3/16? My TC arrived in 16 boxes and I still haven't seen a fully completed one so working from pictures on this site and elsewhere!

[cdrolshagen]

Hello,
I think you mean that place..............
4 Rivets , three short one long one
cheers Carl

[timandgerda]

Thanks Carl - I reference your pictures a lot but couldn't decided if it was a rivet or s set screw. I love this site - ask a question, make coffee and the answer is there!

[cdrolshagen]

Hi Tim,
another quick answer - I have used set screws - from the wheel arch side a washer and a nut,
it is very difficult to fit steel rivets in absence of a proper rivet gun.
cheers Carl

[frenchblatter]

If I remember correctly mine was all setscrews. I don't remember rivets other the the ones holding the seat adjusting arm which are rivetted through the inner wheel arch top.

But I have troible remembering my own name these days so ....

Let me look on the blog... back soon


OK, it's on 13th May 2015. I did take the bull bar and a few others out and post them to him. I've made no mention of rivets but there's no picture to confirm either way. My "Tc's forever" is at the bodyshop so can't refer to that.

[Marv]

Hello all.....

Having just removed mine and noting the original rivets, I was wondering the same thing on what to replace it with. The angle plate with three rivets, of course, stays with the wheel arch only leaving the one hole to fill upon reattachment of the cross brace bull bar. I plan on evaluating the use of a flat head screw from the underside of the wheel arch, opening the c-sink area of the bull bar where the rivet head used to be and using a self locking nut for reattachment of the lot. The alternate method I am considering is the use of binding screws where one end of the screw threads into the barrel of the other end. Makes a nice neat connection, use a little Loctite and tighten securely. Should be as good as the original for holding power. I've ordered a packet from McMaster Carr to give them a try. Of course the OP "originality police" might cringe due to lack of originality of hardware and the use of a Phillips head fastener, but the other OP takes precedence "Owners Preference"!

Marv TC5141

[timandgerda]

In the end I pulled it tight with a set screw, fitted the 2 side wood screws and then removed the set screw and replaced with a rivet hammered up tight. Seems to have worked fine. I am currently trying to get a good fit on the near side door Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

[Marv]

Tim: Do you really mean a set screw or just a temporary bolt and nut to draw it up tight?

On your door fit, are you using or going to use Sherwood Parkers' turnbuckle door adjustment braces. They work great in helping align the doors. Pic attached. Sherwood is on the list.

Cheers, Marv TC5141

[timandgerda]

Hi Marv - yes it was just a temporary fit to draw it up tight. I have already made a turnbuckle strap similar to the one in your picture. It is quite surprising how much it can turn the door in and out. The problem I am having is getting equal loading on the hinges. Either the top or bottom hinge is carrying the load. I have tried to put a steel rod through both to get them aligned but this is not very effective but I am getting there. I have installed temporary shims to get everything where it should be. When I get this right I may bend the hinges to get rid of the shims but will only consider this after several drinks!

[Marv]

It was the term "set" screw that got me confused as a setscrew usually clamps against something, not draw in up tight.
Bending hinges cannot be good "AFTER" having several drinks, Thinking about it over several drinks can't be all bad and is a proven method for solving many of the world's problems.
Best of luck.

Marv

[Marv]

Hi again Tim:

Just a thought and you've probably tried it already but have you slightly loosened the screws on the hinges on both pillar and door so that they can "float" with the alignment procedure and find their sweet spot so to speak?

Marv

[timandgerda]

Hi Marv
unfortunately I am back at work now so will not be able to look at the hinges for a couple of weeks. My current plan is to install the top hinge only and see where the lower one wants to sit - I then need to load it a little I guess to get it right. I just keep telling myself that its no fun when its easy! All the wood is new and the hinges fit quite tightly and although I am reluctant to open the gaps I may have to just a little as you say to let them float a bit. Regarding our earlier confusion a setscrew in the UK is just a bolt that is threaded the whole length. Cheers, Tim.

[Marv]

Thanks for the UK fastener lesson Tim. As you may well know, a setscrew here in the colonies is quite a different animal. Let us know how the doors turn out and any tricks you might stumble onto. I'm not to the point yet of re-hanging the doors on TC5141.

Marv

[frenchblatter]

You may have seen that I've used set screws (a bolt but threaded all the way) on the top hinge, and the door side of the bottom. Had to use wood screws on the body side of the bottom as it is blind. I don't like wood screws, as soon as the wood gets a bit wet they become loose and the door wobbles. I really can't abide wobbly doors.....