MG T-ABC

Have any of you had to replace the bearing and race assemblies (2) where the steering column enters the steering box ? Moss parts # 129-108 are no longer available . Any source would be appreciated. Thanks,TC

Martin Cooke at Abingdon Spares has them listed at $47 ea in stock. Doug Pelton has them as well plus Bob Grunau up in Canada probably does too. I just rebuilt my steering box and my units came from Doug I believe, could have been Moss, I forget which. I also incorporated the Tomkins adaptation plus a new worm, peg and sector shaft from Bob Grunau, I used the Penrite lube from Doug Pelton. It's only available from Australia and his price is just a few dollars more than the direct buy price but he usually has it in stock for fast shipping. If you haven't incorporated the Tomkins kit, I have a Tomkins type knock-off kit that is used but works on the same principle as the Tomkins. The Tomkins has a thrust needle bearing sandwiched between two hardened washers and my other kit utilizes a single hardened ball bearing that indexes into a circular recess on the top of the sector shaft. They both do a pretty good job of reducing friction from what the original design was built around by use of shims against the cover plate governing clearance between it and the top of the sector shaft.

Contact me if interested in the Ball bearing Tomkins type kit. I can supply pictures and the unit would be fairly priced to sell.

Marv TC5141

Marv, with the new worm and peg, how much lost motion do you have on center when driving the car? Just curious............

Car is non-op at present Steve, Hip deep into a frame off restoration. Just finishing the differential this week. I'm not sure I know what you mean by lost motion on center. On my bench set-up I felt there was zero lost motion on the steering wheel after adjustment of the Tomkins nut. I observed the sector shaft movement as damn near immediate response by the naked eye and "feel" of the wheel, but the wheels on the road will tell for sure.

Marv

Hi Marv, apologies for hijacking the thread, but I just though that I would let you know that I did my differential a couple of months ago, so if you need a second opinion on anything, let me know.

OK Steve, thanks.. I've got the pinion shaft assembly assembled and the bearing pre-load set to 7 in lbs. Marked the castellated nut so that on final ass'y I get the same setting. I have the input flange modified machined and the Roger Furneaux modern lip seal kit installed. Crown wheel components all cleaned and inspected and back together with crown wheel temporary in place. Will mount and check run-out of crown-wheel then use new bolts and Aerotite nuts to assemble, also from Roger. Then I will be going to setting up the pre-load on the crown wheel tapered roller bearings to 5-7 in-lbs.. How did you check yours? What kind of set up?

I was alluding to how much free play you might have in the steering wheel before the wheels might start changing direction while driving down a straight road. Looks like it may be awhile before you can tell us that though..................

Pretty much what I thought on your question Steve: Agreed on the "wait and see" but the steering box isn't the only factor in the equation. I have renewed the tie rod and drag link ends as well plus am incorporating the pan hard kit from Roger Furneaux and renewing the kingpins as well. New tapered roller bearings on the spindles and then it will be as good as it's going to ever get I believe.///

I've stripped, cleaned and set up my steering box. The car has all new drag links and track rod end joints. I didn't renew the king pins as the previous owner did them about 6 months before he laid the car up (for the next 48 years). However the drivers side needs doing as it has a bit of movement. It's on the list for jobs over winter.

Back to the subject. I have about an inch and half free play at the steering wheel. The streeing is fine. On a smooth road it stays straight and does not wander at all. It's a bit of a handful on the very bumpy (ie not flat) roads around the farm but it's more a case of cart springs bouncing the car than the steering.

Norman,
I did the same thing to mine and rotated the peg which was not worn but did not replace the cam. Did you replace the cam in your box? I am curious to know whether it makes much difference to replace the cam or not.

I'm reassembling my steering box and column . I'm a bit confused about the felt pad at the top of the column.
Any help or pics would be great. Thanks again , TC

The felt pad is just a dust and dirt excluder that can be lightly oiled and tucked inside the column around the steering shaft and pushed down about 1/2" or so. I inserted the KOYO needle bearing which sort of centers the steering shaft and then pushed the felt down on top of that. I think I trimmed about a third of the felt off though so it would fit inside the column.

Stephen, I kept the cam and peg. It's fine. I'll be doing the O/S king pin over winter which should make it even better.

Is there an easily found alternative to 600wt. Model A rear end oil for a TC steering box ? TC

Doug Pelton in Mesa, AZ From the Frame Up has a new batch in stock. approx. $20 for a bottle that will do two or three fills on the box.

Thanks again Marv .