MG T-ABC

G,day folks ,just wondering what the correct method was to get door mechanism to align with the door lock.
My passenger side has been rebated but after fitting new door timber and replacing a broken plate on the drivers side find that it does not locate the last locating hole .
With the door trim off is even worse .
If I were to shim the door lock then the cover plate would probably not fit over.
This is my 3rd attempt at posting this enquiry as somehow pictures would not attach after the 1st one saved and then all disappear.
The other question is I purchased a screw/bolt kit that contained 4 wood screws and 12 bolts but not really sure exactly where they are supposed to fit. [nothing on my car is original ]
The heads of the bolts don't recess enough into my existing hinges.
I must get that book every one advises.
My door now fits so that daylight cannot be seen around gaps but still has same problem of metal on bottom corner hitting the metal of the body tub where capping goes under the bottom hinge.
I,m thinking perhaps rebate is too much under the hinge on the tub side.
The timber I purchased was too short in both directions for my door so have had to glue and shape extra to them .
Also the wood on the top corner of my door was broken away by someone trying to remove original timber in the past so I have checked a new piece into existing for new timber to join into.
There was nothing before and door flexed badly.
Metal capping was missing as well so a friend helped me fold new capping .
The door fits much better but still has a slight twist so that front bottom touches body before final locking.
I owned a Riley for many years and realise no 2 doors are the same and saw many that had new timber suffer similar problems.
Mine had all new timber but after wet weather would change shape .
Hope that rebating the striker plate is the correct method. Ian theobald

a few more pictures as seem to only fit 2 at a time

Ian, I'm assuming the door, with no trim or locks shuts correctly against the frame. By that I mean that the edge of the door is a good fit to the frame.

There are shims available to bring the lock closer to the striker plate (the bit that goes on the frame).

After that it's just a case of cutting and adjusting to get the lock to align with the lock plate. Be aware that the lock and striker plate are wedge shaped and need to align top/bottom as well as in/out

I have the same problem and have spent ages shaving and adjusting. One now shuts correctly but the drivers side doesn't. As the bodyshop hung the doors and fitted the locks I will be taking it back for them to fix. When I took the car away from them last year the doors were perfect.... but were shutting on the safety catch.

Off the topic, but where is that harness going to?

My technique (based on a single car) was:
1. Take all lock hardware and trim off - door and post - and, as Norman says, make sure that the door shuts correctly all round.
2. Attach lock to the door, still with no post hardware, and shut the door fully.
3. Insert "wedge" onto lock tongue on the door, as in fully closed position, round tongue in the hole in the wedge.
4. Measure exactly where the bolt portion of the "wedge" sits in relation to the post rebate, both in and out and up and down. Make a template of this if you wish.
5. Remove wedge, re-open door, fit striker plate on post so that the bolt/wedge will be in exactly the location found in 4. This may require removing timber in the post or some shimming under the striker. If removing timber, do it in small stages.

Make sure also your hinges are not sloppy and allow the doors to close the same way each time. Frankly these are old wooden cars and the only way to get things to work properly is to shim each locking mechanism to engage the wedge at the proper point. No two cars will be alike as they will each require different shimming techniques to make proper engagement happen. They are like hanging a new screen door on an old house, whatever you need to do to make it work is acceptable.

How satisfying it is to hear the sound of CLINK when one shuts the door now.
Did what was advised regarding alignment of the door striker .
I had to lower it about 5mm on scuttle timber.
My door now closes unassisted so hope should give many more years of service .I still have my passenger door to properly fit as some previous owner has hung too low filling off metal at the top rear where it should hang slightly over the body.
I was lucky with the drivers door that rebates in the door timber aligned with hinges,no idea how I will go on the other side.
The passenger door actually closes but top of the scuttle where the dash meets has had nearly 5mm of filler so I am hoping can grind off and lift the door up.
I had to add shims behind the hinges on the body tub drivers side with one extra on the bottom hinge .
Can someone please advise what the original mounting method was anchoring hinges to door and body.
The top of my body has a recessed hole for 2 bolts but I am not sure if bolts were used for the doors or just wood screws.
Hope to order the book by Mike Sherrell?? that has the many secrets I require.
When I had my Y Tourer I purchased a similar book called Let There Be Y,s and it too had a wealth of information.
Hope too take my car for a spin if the rain ever stops.
We had 2 weeks of high 30,s and low 40,s and now nearly a month of rain at some time each day with temps still in the 30,s .
With all this humidity it totally alters fit of doors so I wont be sure how the door will fit once drier weather comes again[7 yrs rain ,7yrs drought ]

was hoping to attach a few more pictures but not able too for some reason

This might help