MG T-ABC

Good morning all,

On my TC I've replaced the radiator and the hoses with ones from Moss. Yet no matter how hard I tighten up the hose clamps (new) the engine still leaks large amounts of water. Is there some sealant that can be applied on the junction where the hose meets metal or do I just need to start over, again?

Thanks,
Jeff

Was it leaking before? Ensure the fitting on the radiator is round and not bent or damaged. It's also possible that the new hose is thicker and stiffer than the old one, so perhaps the hose clamp needs to be tighter to make a seal. If using an original style clamp, you could try a modern one to see if the extra clamping power seals it up. You should not need any sealant here, especially since the system is under no pressure.

Nope was not leaking before. The radiator and hoses were very old and the radiator boiled in the summer which prompted me to replace it. Hose clamps are about as tight as I can get them. I noticed the issue after letting the car run at idle for 30 minutes, when I turned it off water sprayed out of the bottom hose. Almost like it was under pressure...

Yikes! Are you certain it isn't coming from a crack in the fitting? Otherwise I'd try another hose. You should be able to buy a small length from any auto parts store.

Jeff is the metal pipe OK ? Worth a check, I remember mine being very corroded so I bought a new one. Funny that the water spray out though, I wonder if the thermostat os working as it should, Easy to check, just boil it up in one of the wife`s cooking pots when she's not looking!
Good luck John Cockrem TC2268

Jeff;
I would be suspicious of the water pump malfunction, the suggestion of a bad thermostat or a corroded lower metal pipe are also top considerations.
I would seem that a evaluation of all the components is in order.

Good luck, Joel.

I am suspicious as others are that it is not the hose but the housing. Those old alloy items often corrode badly around the joints. I had to build the flange up on mine with JB Weld.

Hmm, I don't have the time to try and fix it before I need to move it to it's new home at my new home. So will probably trailer it. Then tear it all apart and go after it metal bit with a Demmel tool and hope I can get them all shiny for the next install.
Thanks all.

"when I turned it off water sprayed out of the bottom hose. Almost like it was under pressure..."

Sounds like the typical scene of spray out the overflow tube, which is routed to bottom area of radiator. That is the radiator finding its fill level for you, from an over filled rad. In other words, are you sure it is coming out the bottom coolant hose and not the overflow tube?

Good point Duncan. Going to have to get under there and trace that over flow pipe. Wouldn't that be nice if that was the answer!!

Agreed, if it's coming from the pipe and not the hose or fitting then it's completely normal after the first drive!

Just a thought, but could the overflow pipe be blocked causing the radiator to build up a bit of pressure. I really owe that idea to Phil Cassie of TA fame who suggested that when we were chatting about Jeff`s problem a couple of days ago.
Hopefully it will be something simple.

I guess that could be a possibility as the radiator was full of gunk. However I'm unable to get under the car or start it as it is surrounded by moving boxes. So I'll post back here in 3 weeks when all the boxes are moved and I'm able to check it out.
Thanks for thinking about me!!

I doubt that enough pressure would build that it wouldn't clear the blockage. The hoses should be able to hold quite a bit of pressure. But stranger things have happened I suppose.

So I started her and saw water coming from the engine. Opened the driver side bonnet (right side drive) so left side looking from front, and saw water that looks like it's dripping from the manifold, not good. As I live in Denver and it got very cold one night I fear that the water froze. Are there freeze plug that would have blown? If not I'm hoping that caskets may have blown. Since I've just today finish her garage floor and have yet to drain the oil to check for water I will know more no more soon. How do I check for a cracked block?

I always go for a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix, which is freeze proof down to minus 27 F. Even 30% is good for down to 10 F. If you want to diagnose a freeze cracked block, you are right back to where you began. You need to find out where the coolant is leaking out from.

Well I wasn't in the country when the temp dropped and had just got done replacing the radiator... So possible hard lesson learned. I guess I'll find out when I tear it all apart.

BTW does anyone have a good engine rebuilding manual?

Geoff, not a manual eactly but if you look at my rebuild blog http://www.lotus7news.co.uk/MG-TC-HOME.htm click on Tech,Index and then Engine rebuild you'll have some idea.

I didn't really need a manual as I remembered most of it from 50 years ago but I have 3 TC books and none give a comprehensive engine rebuild section, but all thre probably have all the information you'll need.

Can't pop over to help so good luck.

There are 7 freeze plugs behind that manifold plus the block drain. Plenty of places to leak from!

"Freeze plugs" is something of a misnomer; the engine holes are actually the remains of the original access points for casting the engine. Welsh plugs, or core plugs, are the actual name. Even with the plugs in place it is possible to crack a block, although in XPAG-type blocks, it is rare. The chances are good you have just popped a core plug, or one is leaking. In any case, I would go throguh and replace all you can (the one in the rear of the block is almost impossible to replace with the engine in situ).

As you can see in the above image, I sell brass core plugs which are preferrable to steel ones, as the latter can and do rust through. My brass ones are far preferred (see mgtrepair.net for more information), and will last until your next rebuild.

I'm happy to help with any further information.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair