MG T-ABC

I thought that I would start a new thread about my continued rebuild of my TC tub. This follows on from last year where I had got to stage 3 (as defined in TCFE) but then got stuck due to a missing door hinge (now sourced) and giving a door to someone to repair and then not getting it back for months.

When I did get the door back, it looked OK on the surface, but the bottom edge didn't look right so I tried to bend it back into shape and to put the twist into it with the wood. To my surprise and horror (particularly given how much the repair cost), the front of the door started to crack and I discovered that it was covered in quite a thick layer of body filler (bondo). I've now stripped this off to reveal a very poor repair that I'm going to have to re-do. Lesson learnt!

More pictures and tips on the stage 3 build to follow, but for now, I have a question. I've temporarily hung a door so that I can locate the front door pillar. I'm following TCFE guidance and going for a 1/4 inch gap all round to the bare wood tub frame. This picture shows the rough fit where the hinges are (yes, I know its a bit high, but its only lightly tacked into place, so I'm not bothered about that at the moment). My point is that all of the pictures that I have seen have the hinges recessed into the door pillar. If I do that with mine, then the gap is, in effect, zero rather than 1/4 inch. To make it look right (i.e. recessed into the door pillar) I was thinking of simply packing under the hinges in the door frame and letting them into the pillar by the same amount. This would move the hinges rearward but without altering the fit. Is this the right way to proceed?

Stew,
Anything you have to do to achieve the fit of those doors the way you want them is fair game. Keep in mind that it is a good idea that when building a tub to have the engine and gearbox in the chassis and the chassis sitting on four wheels, not supported by stands.

I have built only one TC. I do not believe that you require a 1/4 inch gap at the rear of the doors. That is about the clearance you need at the front, particularly, and at the bottom. The "flanges" on these two edges hide the gap but there is no "flange" on the rearmost edge.

As you have found, the hinges are designed such that their two faces are almost in contact in the closed position. As they open, the two surfaces move away from each other. There is no need that I can see for a significant gap.

I rebated both the tub upright and the door so that the hinges were essentially flush. You may wish to start with a bit less rebate and then vary the amount top to bottom to get the door to hang at the correct horizontal angle to match the bottom of the opening. However I would finish with them as close to flush as possible even with this variation.

Hi when it came to hanging my doors I had to fill the rebate on body timber on both sides as the doors wete too close and would not close as the inside metal would foul.
It was also necesarry to drill out all srew holes and insert dowels as doors had to screw into different position.
The previous owners had also hollowed out body timber to far forward so have inserted new timber in the old location and re hollowed in the correct location using the metal bracket that is uet to be fitted as a template.
All this has neen a job that have put off for some time but finally decided to tackle as my doors were getting hard to shut and new trim has been in its box for some time
My local panel shop can finish off door fitment but they are solid with no movement at hinges but require some bits welded that some previous owner has cut or filled away.

Have attached some more pictures .
Except for front door timber ,nothing else original remains so has been very difficult to know how things were originally and due to poor fitting of the doors and possibly timber work a lot of damage has been disguised.
Metal has been cut away and original door cappings butchered with weld .
All said and done I now have 2 doors that click shut with no play and no longer scrape on floor.
I will get body painted along with doors and capping and worry about guards later as not too bad but have faded..
Under the bonnet is the original cream on the engine bay so will match that.
I have not played around with body packing so it may improve fitting but think what I have am happy with.
Just a shame that car has been off the road for past 6 months but this a job that few body places would take on.
My wood skills are minimal .
I think had the original timber been in place and metal fittings it would be an easier task .

This is where I am to date and in the process of removing rear guards and petrol tank .
One finds many suprises.
Discovered a wasp nest behind rear trim but thankfully wasps had vacated.
My car gets driven at least once a week but doors have taken a while to finnish.
From what I have found unless your car has original timber then you can only use infomation as a guide as it seemed even the angle from floor to top of body tub is critical.
I had to add a thin section and gradually plain to almost nothing at top on the passenger side so that both hinges matched when rebate filled in top and bottom
Also factoring in any damage to hinges being slightly bent and even chassis packing.
My new timber for door had rebates as thick as the hinge so cannot see how the tub could have a matching rebate as the metal on the door and tub will interfere.
One would have to shim both sides so I choose to have one side with a rebate and factor in slight thickness of capping on the body side.
The distance of door opening width was also wider on the passenger side but sometime in my cars life someone has replaced.
One wonders how it did not rattle with no body brace or inner rear guard brace.
Just put it down to good Aussie hard wood.

Looking good! I have a few wood issues to work on but I haven't worked up the courage yet.