MG TC bulls horns dimensions

[jabawok1]

Can anyone provide me with a dimensioned drawing of the 'bulls horns' for a TC? I'm pretty sure I have seen this topic before but search does not bring it up for me. Thanks.
I am aware that Sherrell's book quotes 45.5" between door pillar mounting points but I have something in excess of that and I need to find out where the discrepancy lies.
OK, I have compared the profile of the two ends and it's fairly obvious which one is incorrect .
I would still appreciate any dimensions of the bends at the ends if anyone has them to hand, just to confirm.

[Tim Jackson]

Earlier topic, but no dimensions:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=844

[ian theobald]

From what I can work out should be same angle as floor behind the seat with a right angle if viewed side on
My car did not have one so was able to purchase from UK.
I mounted it along floor at edge where meets angle at top and brackets aligned close to top door hinges.
Only problem was the hoop over each wheel arch left half inch of clearance.
As my car is in at panel shop having doors and tub painted I have asked if they can cut and reweld for a closer fit.
If not then may have to fill with wadding between.

[SteveW]

Hi Ian,

I think that the tolerance on the bulls horns left something to be desired. With mine, one side is just right, but on the other, the 'arm' that projects from the face of the wood is about 4-5mm too short. This doesn't sound much but its enough to have a big impact on the fit of the inner wheel arch. I'm still trying to work out what to do about it, the original builders appear to have simply bent the wheel arch around it but I'm reluctant to take a heavy hammer to my new ones! I envy you if yours are too long as you can fix it with padding

[SteveW]

The following are the dimensions of mine (taken from the good side!)

[ian theobald]

I was also lucky that could see a faint outline over each wheel arch where there would of been a bracket.
I dont think my inner wheel arches are a correct fit as there is gaps in between the timber of the door pillars but they were replaced sometime in the past.
Same goes for the rear of the wheel but have discovered that the rear corner sections were missing with just a diagonal block in each corner not curved to follow down.
I have purchased these 2 timbers so that hood tack rail can match.
My tack rails are narrower than width underneath by about 5 mm so that if flush with inner edge there is a lip all the way around of 5 mm but the hood hides that.
As for bulls horn.perhaps your door pillar has boeed out one side.
I centred and bow was even over each wheel arch althogh too high.
Quick question...my car only has ply for side curtain storage on both sides but moss drawing shows a metal section.
I could also lift body tub slightly when petrol tank straps undone so wondereing if missing some rear mounts.
My car has no rattles and with doors retimbered and rehung and bulls horn brace will be even tighter.
Cant wait to see once painted.

[jabawok1]

Thanks Steve W your dimension at 6.5" agrees with mine now it has been straightened and the overall width is 45.5" per Sherrell. The distance between the forward curved face of the brace across the back axle cover and the underside of the wheel arch is 5.0". The radius of the bend around the wheel arch is also 5.0".
No need to use a hammer to bend the brace as there was only one radius that needed adjusting. By clamping the centre section of bar in a vice and using a long ring spanner as a lever it was possible to adjust the first bend back to a 90 degree angle, which sorted out my problem.
My problem now is to make my new door pillars fit as there is about 3/4" gap each side to the ends of the bull horns. When I welded up the vertical sub-frame brackets I probably made them too wide as I had no dimensions to work from. Rather than change the brackets I think I can hollow out the door pillars to fit round then.

[jabawok1]

Ian do you mean you are missing the sidescreen box metal panel, as shown on page 172 of TCs Forever?
I made up a new metal panel to the dimensions shown in Sherrell, which I found pretty accurate. The new bottom rail dimensions are given at the bottom of page 171. The back end of the body is clamped to the chassis through this bottom rail.

[ian theobald]

I must get this book but was bottom of priorities at the time with so much going on.
Just came back from 2 weeks in Ireland and now Sons wedding plus car in at panel shop getting body tub and doors painted.
I should of got the book earlier .I was hoping I could order direct from Author as in same country but could not get a reply.

I had a similar nook when I owned a Y tourer and was called Let there Be Ys and found it invaluable.
It wasnt till I unbolted fuel tank brackets that realised rear tub had movement.
As for side curtain compartment .ply is starting to delaminate on bottom corners on exposed edges although no holes.
Most of ply facing diff is covered in misty dust and oil so gives protection.
Picture is of car with doors now fitting with new timber minus bull horn.
I can now shut both doors without lifting.

[jabawok1]

It's looking good Ian, I like the turnbuckles on the door straps and I will do the same when I have found the ones that I have temporarily misplaced. I don't know where you are based but NTG services in UK list both of the Sherrell books, pricey but invaluable. I made my sidescreen box metal panel by ordering a cut to size sheet of stainless steel from ebay and then took it to a sheet metal shop with Sherrell's drawing to get bent up, total cost £40.

[ian theobald]

Thanks for picture.
It looks like I can make and fit later and seems like only there to assist should wood/ ply fall apart.
My timber is mostly intact but starting to delaminate on bottom corners.
I was going to inject epoxy resin and clamp with a g clamp untill set.
Perhaps the metal acts like a shield and prevents water spraying inside.
All my box had was some mud wasp nests minus wasps and painted black with sections of D shaped timber along bottom edges..
I like idea of modern shock absorbers.
One of my lever shocks is leaking but can be repaired in Brisbane that specialises in vw shocks but wants good one to match resistances.
Think about 200 dollars to repair.
Will be interesting to see how taught body is with bull horn as had no movement prior except doors had to be assisted to shut.

[jabawok1]

The metal at the bottom of my original sidescreen box had rotted away at some time and been repaired with a riveted section so I am surprised that a ply box would last.
As for fitting metal at a later stage the top edge of the box wraps around the back axle cover frame. The metal actually passes between the frame and the tub back, so you may need to modify the metal design to suite.

[frenchblatter]

Ian, look on my blog, go to tech index and click on "shock absorbers"

You can get the seals and core plugs in the UK and postage shouldn't be expensive.