MG T-ABC

While cleaning up the bell housing on TC7801 I noticed that there is no weep hole in the bottom of the housing with a cotter pin inserted as there is on the TD's. This hole in my experience and recollection is to let the oil drain out of the bell housing from the inherent leak from the rear seal on the engine. It sure does let the oil drain out on one of my TD's. I have mounted a catch pan to the bell housing to catch the oil that comes from the rear seal. This is a lot cheaper than replacing the seal especially when the engine runs so well. Seems to me as if this modification would be a good thing to incorporate into my car. The engine supposedly was rebuilt prior to my getting the car in pieces as a stalled project but I have no way of knowing if it is going to leak oil from the rear seal. I can't see where this would hurt anything especially if the factory decided to incorporate this modification on later cars. Any thought on this? Good idea/bad idea? Mark

Yep, You're right Mark. The function of the hole and the big cotter pin (commonly called a rattle pin), is designed to rattle around in the hole to keep it from plugging up with the leaking oil and road grime. Your idea of a drip catch pan has been marketed by someone already and is found with some regularity on eBay. It marginally reduces the height of speed bumps, rocks and edges of trailers you can clear but saves the mess on the garage floor or driveway, even has a convenient petcock for draining. May need to clean it out on occasion as it presents ample opportunity for road debris to gather in it's open pan.

Marv,
Thanks for the response. I made and installed a product like the one shown for one of my TD's. It works well. I guess I'll drill a weep hole and install the "rattle pin" in the TC just like what is in my TD's. Should work well and won't hurt anything in the process. Hopefully not needed but if so, it'll be in place. Easier to do now than later. Mark

Currently swapping my TF from LHD to RHD and then fitting a 5 speed box. Have purchased the conversion "seal" to hopefully overcome the "thrower" leak from Moss to complete this work. Anyone fitted the kit and either regretted it or any advice on fitting please?

Have a competent machine shop do it for you. Take the crank, flywheel and new ring gear then have the crank magnafluxed, turned and balanced for new bearings. Have the shop install a new set of camshaft bearings for you and the camshaft if you have it. Have the flywheel magnafluxed and checked for balance then they can install the new ring gear. With all that done first, then they can follow the instructions for the Moss rear seal conversion installation as that sometimes requires some machining for proper clearances and concentricity. The use of a Speedi-Sleeve is encouraged on the crank face that interacts with the Viton seal. A thin lube of the Speedi-Sleeve seal face and the Viton lip with a premium high temp grease is advised for start-up. So you don't break it in on a "dry" surface. The Viton seal is set into it's recess by a slight press fit and the use of a good hi-temp RTV sealant or equivalent.

I would install the ring gear before balancing the flywheel. I would also recommend lightening the flywheel.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair