MG T-ABC

Good day, I,m not sure if others have had the frustration of fitting these things but very difficult when your car has lost the original cappings on body and door.
Without seeing original diameter or correct location had to guess from holes in metal replacement parts for inside of door.
On my drivers door there was a hole that closely aligned with one on the body tub but was not in the centre of the door so that on closing the hinged part fouled.
This I remedied by grinding so that nothing protuded mire than the fixed section in any position.
At least the drivers door opens to the full extent of rubber buffer and on closing rod does not hit the door skin...well done ,pat on the back.
With the passenger side was not as lucky as the hole in the door was in the centre.
As a result when I open ,the curved rod fouls within timber and only allows the door to 3/4 open but at least does not hit door skin.
I have added some more rubber and experimented with the amount of curvature of the rod.
It is interesting to note the difference in curve of dash under the windscreen and on stripping back to bare metal had no sign of damage or alteration.
Also the passenger door gives the appearance of a larger gap under the dash but in fact is the result of difference in lip of the door skin.
This also shows no sign of disturbance and wonder if the design of the doors changed as the drivers door is even all the way around.
It is what it is.
Next stage is to fit the bonnet rubber and then can go about installing all trim.
Fitting the rear guards was difficult due to the many holes and all the ones in the wheel arch filled over.
Eventually will have guards re painted.
Ian.

Ian, I had to build a new tub for TC2911, the original was a disaster made of bondo, roof flashing, and pine. 90% of the body timbers were replaced although the door timbers were saved. The scuttle and doors were re used although repair was required under the windshield plinths and the door bottoms were replaced as is the norm. This was assembled and placed on the chassis and the other body panels were fitted. By doing this I was able to adjust fit of doors and panels as needed. If I need to add a bit of metal here or there by welding I could do so, if something needed to be made smaller it could be. Door hinges, strikers, checks, windshield, etc. were fitted up. Basically the car was assembled a couple of times and than taken apart for minor body work and painting which I did. It was than put back together and re assembled and still required adjustment to some degree as one would expect. My point here is, and certainly not being critical, but to all who read these posts that fit up, adjustment and correction needs to be done prior to paint being applied so that major inconsistencies can be addressed to a great degree. Old wooden cars simply change over the years and adjustments over and above those that were done at the works when they were being built are often required to get decent fit up.

If only I had the skills..as it was I managed to fit new timber into doors that were rather distorted.
I pointed our the imperfections hoping work shop would remedy but owner was away and place was flat out with day to day stuff.
I dont have ab opeb wallet so was glad

If only I had the skills..as it was I managed to fit new timber into doors that were rather distorted.
I pointed our the imperfections hoping work shop would remedy but owner was away and place was flat out with day to day stuff.
I dont have ab open wallet so was glad just to have car back
The car is basically straight and probably trying for perfection on a limited budget.
It would seem that some previous owner has replaced body timbers so nothing is original except fot the fronr 2 timbers in both doors so at least door handles etc have origial location mounts.

Perfection alludes on these cars, after you drive them for a few years with humidity and such things will change on their own, no matter how particular you were when you put it together!