Fellow strippers,
TC 7794 needs a strip to metal. I won't be painting, but could really benefit from you guys who have preceded me in this process. What panels come off first? How can wiring disconnections be minimized? I stripped a TR3 using Airplane Stripper and sandpaper and achieved more than satisfactory results. I intend to proceed in the same way on 7794.
To me, dismantling a TC is a big step up from a TR3. I'd really appreciate hearing from those who have done it.
Bob Brennan
S. Freeport, ME
Re-spray: where to start?
Re: Re-spray: where to start?
Robert:
I'd start with the rear and work forward...spare tire carrier, gas tank, right / left rear wings, running boards, then bonnet ( can be lifted off complete with two people, then diss ambled to seperate panels)' then both front wings, and finally the front apron. Note: apron may have to come off before the wings, not sure right now, but you can tell by looking closely.
As to the doors, if they fit well now and the hinges don't need work, I might just leave them attached to the tub and work them in place as needed. Just paint the tub and doors all together. When spraying I'd first "cut-in" the edges of the doors, door sills, inside of tub when ready to final color coat, let dry then final prep the outside surfaces of the complete tub and paint final color/ clear, or whatever you're using. If your not doing the painting a good painter will know how proceed with the tub/ doors combo. This is of course assuming you are not doing a concours restoration and just want a nice looking driver and nice paint job. No way to paint a T car all together and get a decent job out of it.
Good Luck however U go!
Brian W.
I'd start with the rear and work forward...spare tire carrier, gas tank, right / left rear wings, running boards, then bonnet ( can be lifted off complete with two people, then diss ambled to seperate panels)' then both front wings, and finally the front apron. Note: apron may have to come off before the wings, not sure right now, but you can tell by looking closely.
As to the doors, if they fit well now and the hinges don't need work, I might just leave them attached to the tub and work them in place as needed. Just paint the tub and doors all together. When spraying I'd first "cut-in" the edges of the doors, door sills, inside of tub when ready to final color coat, let dry then final prep the outside surfaces of the complete tub and paint final color/ clear, or whatever you're using. If your not doing the painting a good painter will know how proceed with the tub/ doors combo. This is of course assuming you are not doing a concours restoration and just want a nice looking driver and nice paint job. No way to paint a T car all together and get a decent job out of it.
Good Luck however U go!
Brian W.
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Tim Jackson
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2013 8:49 am
- Location: Scottish Borders, UK
Re: Re-spray: where to start?
Robert,
It all depends. Mike Sherrell describes the sequence (attached). Bare metal painting requires complete dismantling, as most panels are painted inside and out. It only takes a day or so to completely dismantle the car. That’s the easy part. Putting it together again is a bit more difficult. To avoid distortion of body panels, remove paint with plastic beads (or similar). Some panel repairs are likely.
What else should be done whilst the car is in pieces? Consider carefully as ‘restoration creep’ is inevitable. Where to draw the line? Is the chassis straight and sound? Does any timber need replacing? Do all the body panels line-up correctly? There’s little point in shiny new paint if the basics are suspect. I’d replace the wiring loom, as it’s easily done at this stage, and relatively inexpensive. The paint and cockpit are key. Take it slowly. It will be worth it.
Tim
It all depends. Mike Sherrell describes the sequence (attached). Bare metal painting requires complete dismantling, as most panels are painted inside and out. It only takes a day or so to completely dismantle the car. That’s the easy part. Putting it together again is a bit more difficult. To avoid distortion of body panels, remove paint with plastic beads (or similar). Some panel repairs are likely.
What else should be done whilst the car is in pieces? Consider carefully as ‘restoration creep’ is inevitable. Where to draw the line? Is the chassis straight and sound? Does any timber need replacing? Do all the body panels line-up correctly? There’s little point in shiny new paint if the basics are suspect. I’d replace the wiring loom, as it’s easily done at this stage, and relatively inexpensive. The paint and cockpit are key. Take it slowly. It will be worth it.
Tim
- Attachments
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- Restoration Sequence.pdf
- (129.99 KiB) Downloaded 300 times
1946 TC0999 / XPAG 1638
restore note
restore note
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stephen stierman
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:12 pm
- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: Re-spray: where to start?
Remove everything you can that unbolts, including doors, you can leave the hinges in place if you like. Aircraft stripper does a fine job at home and I also like to use a course wire wheel on my angle grinder for getting the final old bits of paint off. Be sure to wear proper eye, ear, and skin protection when using this method. Then a good scrubbing with hot soapy water to remove the chemicals. You should be able to sweep up the old paint scraps and dispose of safely. Enjoy!
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Robert Brennan
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:51 am
Re: Re-spray: where to start?
Thanks to all for your suggestions. In addition to "TC's Forever", I have added
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/093825 ... _at_prodpg
The previous restoration is holding up well and if it wasn't for last summer's fender-bender, I would have put this off a few years.
Bob Brennan
S. Freeport, ME
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/093825 ... _at_prodpg
The previous restoration is holding up well and if it wasn't for last summer's fender-bender, I would have put this off a few years.
Bob Brennan
S. Freeport, ME