Smooth oil sump on a TC?

[John Youens]

I'm in the process of buying some spare engine parts including an XPAG oil sump from a friend. He claims that the correct sump for a TC is the smooth version, not the finned version. In my experience, I've never seen a TC with a smooth oil sump. Was this ever offered on a TC?

Thanks,
John

[Steve Simmons]

As far I know, TC and early TD only came with ribbed sumps.

[John Frederick Cockrem]

Ribbed sumps original on TCs for me. I have a smooth sump as a spare but it has provision for the clutch rod as found on TDs and TFs ....dunno! Y Type perhaps??

John Cockrem TC 2268

[Phil Dadd]

My current TA and the four TC's I have owned over the past 50 years have all had finned sumps. If it is a smooth tin sump, I would think, Morris 10.
Phil TA 2982

[Gene Gillam]

According to Neil Cairns' book "How to be an expert on MG engines":

"In 1947 M.G. introduced the ‘Y’ series saloon, with a single SU H2 1 1/4"carb
XPAG engine. This and the softer cam produced 46bhp. There had been no suffix to the
XPAG engine types up until now as there was only the TC using it. In the ‘Y’ the engine
became the XPAG/SC, and began at SC/10001. It was both a saloon now termed the
YA, and a tourer called the YT, and sold in RHD and LHD. To clear the LHD steering
column the dip stick and its guide grew by two and a half inches at SC/13404. Where as
the TB & TC had a ribbed alloy sump, the ‘Y’ type was smooth."

This book is in the Special Files section: http://www.mg-tabc.org/special-files/how-to-be.pdf

[John Youens]

Thanks for all the responses on this subject! I was pretty sure the TC was only offered in a ribbed sump, but I wanted to get the word from the experts.

John

[ian theobald]

My 49 TC has a ribbed sump which is a bit of a nuisance as the ribs prevent my drip tray that I purchased from mating hard up so oil drips from the hole in the bell housing between the ribs defeating the purpose of the catch tray. Oil also gets flung out the rear of the starter leaving a misty coating all down drivers side engine bay and side louvers.
I owned a YT before I purchased current TC and had one of those funnel type oil cans with some copper pipe soldered to it that was threaded into bell housing. Was a great idea and worked well.
Cant say much for the YT,nearly lost it around a corner with 3 huge teenagers inthe back,got the sways and luckily no others cars on the road and was only going about 35 to 40mph.
Difficult for body parts and had to get door hinges reproduced with a wax cast off other side .
Interesting to read the post on ajustable steering ,Took my car out in the rain last weekend and with hood up and rear windows in was near impossible to get out as front of rear windows got in the way. .To be honest ,in the 3 -4 yrs I have had the car have never used side curtains,even when it rains .Just wear my motorcycle jacket.

[Gene Gillam]

Ian,

Use a die grinder and remove the ribs in front so the catch can will fit up close.

Gene

[Steve Simmons]

I don't like the idea of permanently modifying the sump. I would cut a piece from plastic to slide over the ribs, and attach it to the can.

[Gene Gillam]

Steve,

I'm of the opinion that if you're going to permanently mount the can to catch the drips why not modify the pan so it's easy to mount? No one will ever climb beneath your car to see if the ribs are there.

Gene

[Steve Simmons]

I just think it's better to modify the can than to modify the car. The fins have been there for 70 years and safe to say they will still be there in another 70 for the next old car nut!

Every once in a while I find something on one of my cars that makes me think, "I sure wish someone hadn't done that". I don't want anyone saying that about my work!

[dirk w dondorp]

Hear, hear!!
I have a smooth sump in my cellar, I gladly exchange........

[ian theobald]

I was actually thinking of cutting some Tin or Aluminium to match shape of bell housing like a shield or a funnel cut in half down the middle and glueing with metal glue to bell housing in front of hole or trying to remove split pin out of hole and then threading a pipe into it to drain into catch tray. I used metal glue to reattach bracket at side of radiator where left stay attaches and 2 yrs on still solid.
My grill has a crack at the bottom and will try and glue a metal plate from behind as chrome is ok and when joined together by hand is barely noticable. At present have stuffed some rag behind it to stop rattle/vibration.
The MG has taken a back burner at the moment as have a couple of other projects going on but is fully road going and use as my motor cycle on 4 wheels [has mud guards and spoked wheels ].
I Know its not MG related but The projects are the restoration of a Honda 750 sohc Santee Chopper as I am a member of our local classic and vintage motorcycle club and chopper is of the 70, era and seldom seen now.
The other project is the restoration of my 1960,s Hartley trailor sailor.
I also have a restored 1928 BSA 1.74hp 2 stoke 2 speed which is extremely rare and possibly only current known model to still be road going and a 1976 Yamaha RD 250 2 stoke that was abandoned for over 25 yrs outside my brother in laws farm shed and now restored.
Plenty to keep me busy .