MG TC Wiring layout for indicators
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Chris Blood
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2000 5:08 am
MG TC Wiring layout for indicators
Could someone provide me with a wiring diagram for fitting flashing indicators to my TC. It has been rebuilt over the past 7 years and I no idea how they work together! That is the flasher, the switch and where the indicators fit to the car? regards, Chris Blood
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ROGER FURNEAUX
- Posts: 1434
- Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2019 5:49 am
Re: MG TC Wiring layout for indicators
MG TC Wiring layout for indicators
Chris - look in the "Brown Book" page 94: 1948/9 U.S.A. (Export) wiring diag. This is the complicated way to do it 'cos it uses special Lucas relays to flash exixting bulb filaments. You can either use much cheaper modern relays, or double up on all the wires and bulbs. There are neat bulb holders for the front sidelights to take double fliament bulbs, and at the rear the jury is still out on the best and/or neatest way to go about it. you will have to give more detail on what has been done to your car.
ocTagonally
Roger Furneaux
Chris - look in the "Brown Book" page 94: 1948/9 U.S.A. (Export) wiring diag. This is the complicated way to do it 'cos it uses special Lucas relays to flash exixting bulb filaments. You can either use much cheaper modern relays, or double up on all the wires and bulbs. There are neat bulb holders for the front sidelights to take double fliament bulbs, and at the rear the jury is still out on the best and/or neatest way to go about it. you will have to give more detail on what has been done to your car.
ocTagonally
Roger Furneaux
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Michael Card
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Wed Nov 24, 1999 4:00 am
Re: MG TC Wiring layout for indicators
Chris Further to Roger's comments. I think you are in USA and so I assume that your car cannot be an EXU model which has the indicators/relays etc. So here are some ideas:-
Front 1130 sidelights:- Twin filament lamp holder like Roger describes is the easiest way to go. You use a 21 Watt / 5 Watt lamp. Remove the existing single-filament lampholder and fit a double-filament one. I used a twin-filament lampholder mounted on a brass base cut to fit neatly inside the sidelight, and tapped for the two mounting screws from underneath. See Steve Taylor's technical note on the website for another solution at the front, and the reasons he went that way.. Another solution at the front, if you are using 7 inch headlights or the 8 inch lights with the 7 inch reducing rims is to buy the 7 inch light units with a side light in it and then use the 1130 lights on the wings for flashers only - then you could put an amber coloured filter inside the 1130 behind the opaque glass so that the light flashes yellow, but still looks original white in daylight
Rear lights:- I started off by flashing my stop lights at the rear (using diodes, not relays) but I felt that this signal was not sufficiently visible - even with a 21 Watt lamp - see below. (Yes there is some volt-drop in the diodes but this was not the whole reason.) Therefore I personally would not go for the relay system which flashes the stop light either. I think that in today's traffic you need clear and separate stop and turn signals. Therefore I have now fitted some small motor-cycle pods either side of, and in line with, the two rear D-lamps. The turn signal is now very visible. Trouble is they [and almost any other solution] detract slightly from the appearance. However original TCs for UK and Australia had only one tail light unit, and in UK at least we must now have two by law so the rear can never be perfectly original because everyone here uses two D-lamps at the rear. Like others, I have accepted that it is better for the turn signal to be clearly seen so reluctantly added the extra pods. The motor cycle pods cost me about GBP3 or USD5 each at an autojumble and I use the same twin filament lamp (21/5) as at the front, activating both filaments (26 Watt). That means that I carry the same spares for front and rear. Or you could fit extra lights at the top tank sides a la EXU. (See Steve Taylor's note again.) I wanted that part of the car clear of extra lights (personal preference) so put the pods adjacent to the D-lamps. Also I did not want to run extra wires up to the tank top. These motor cycle pods are small, and have a chromed body with amber lens. They have a chromed tube for mounting, and I made up a simple black-painted bracket to accept the chrome tube, and fixed this behind the D-lamp screws. It all looks reasonably neat and I know that both turn and stop signals can be seen, but the rear of the car looks very close to original. Another point is that I found that my D-lamps [reproductions from Moss] are supplied with 5 Watt lamps for both tail light and stop light. You cannot buy a lamp any bigger than 10 Watt which will fit into the stop light section and still allow you to close the lid, so I removed the existing stop lamp holder and fitted a new one in a different location which allows me to get a 21 Watt lamp in. (It was this 21 watt lamp which I was initially flashing as the turn indicator, but found it unsatisfactory.)
Switch:- You will need to fit a switch somewhere in the cockpit. I put mine on a small horizontal bracket attached to the bottom edge of the dash backing ply-board, so that it is under and behind the dash and not very visible, but is just above the gearstick and very easy to reach. I used the 30 mile warning light (UK car) as the repeater light, but you could use the petrol warning light.
Wiring:- As Roger says the wiring is the next matter. Depending on your personal philosophy you will have to run extra wires, or fit a new loom with the appropriate cables in it - if yours is a "nice" car the latter may be better. When you decide which way to go I will be happy to help on wiring connections if you need - send off-list e-mail. Sorry this is so long ....
Regards
Mike Card TC8233
Front 1130 sidelights:- Twin filament lamp holder like Roger describes is the easiest way to go. You use a 21 Watt / 5 Watt lamp. Remove the existing single-filament lampholder and fit a double-filament one. I used a twin-filament lampholder mounted on a brass base cut to fit neatly inside the sidelight, and tapped for the two mounting screws from underneath. See Steve Taylor's technical note on the website for another solution at the front, and the reasons he went that way.. Another solution at the front, if you are using 7 inch headlights or the 8 inch lights with the 7 inch reducing rims is to buy the 7 inch light units with a side light in it and then use the 1130 lights on the wings for flashers only - then you could put an amber coloured filter inside the 1130 behind the opaque glass so that the light flashes yellow, but still looks original white in daylight
Rear lights:- I started off by flashing my stop lights at the rear (using diodes, not relays) but I felt that this signal was not sufficiently visible - even with a 21 Watt lamp - see below. (Yes there is some volt-drop in the diodes but this was not the whole reason.) Therefore I personally would not go for the relay system which flashes the stop light either. I think that in today's traffic you need clear and separate stop and turn signals. Therefore I have now fitted some small motor-cycle pods either side of, and in line with, the two rear D-lamps. The turn signal is now very visible. Trouble is they [and almost any other solution] detract slightly from the appearance. However original TCs for UK and Australia had only one tail light unit, and in UK at least we must now have two by law so the rear can never be perfectly original because everyone here uses two D-lamps at the rear. Like others, I have accepted that it is better for the turn signal to be clearly seen so reluctantly added the extra pods. The motor cycle pods cost me about GBP3 or USD5 each at an autojumble and I use the same twin filament lamp (21/5) as at the front, activating both filaments (26 Watt). That means that I carry the same spares for front and rear. Or you could fit extra lights at the top tank sides a la EXU. (See Steve Taylor's note again.) I wanted that part of the car clear of extra lights (personal preference) so put the pods adjacent to the D-lamps. Also I did not want to run extra wires up to the tank top. These motor cycle pods are small, and have a chromed body with amber lens. They have a chromed tube for mounting, and I made up a simple black-painted bracket to accept the chrome tube, and fixed this behind the D-lamp screws. It all looks reasonably neat and I know that both turn and stop signals can be seen, but the rear of the car looks very close to original. Another point is that I found that my D-lamps [reproductions from Moss] are supplied with 5 Watt lamps for both tail light and stop light. You cannot buy a lamp any bigger than 10 Watt which will fit into the stop light section and still allow you to close the lid, so I removed the existing stop lamp holder and fitted a new one in a different location which allows me to get a 21 Watt lamp in. (It was this 21 watt lamp which I was initially flashing as the turn indicator, but found it unsatisfactory.)
Switch:- You will need to fit a switch somewhere in the cockpit. I put mine on a small horizontal bracket attached to the bottom edge of the dash backing ply-board, so that it is under and behind the dash and not very visible, but is just above the gearstick and very easy to reach. I used the 30 mile warning light (UK car) as the repeater light, but you could use the petrol warning light.
Wiring:- As Roger says the wiring is the next matter. Depending on your personal philosophy you will have to run extra wires, or fit a new loom with the appropriate cables in it - if yours is a "nice" car the latter may be better. When you decide which way to go I will be happy to help on wiring connections if you need - send off-list e-mail. Sorry this is so long ....
Regards
Mike Card TC8233
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info@roofcarriersystems.com.au
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 1999 3:44 pm
TC indicator lights
TC9507 is fitted at the rear with indicator lights from late model Triumph Daytona motor cycle. These lights are expensive to buy but are the most correct looking lights I could find. The lights are left and right handed and are fitted to the centre hole at the rear of the chassis. No drilling or special brackets are required for fitting to the TC. The body of the lights are black, not chrome. The lenses have had the part numbers buffed off and have been "blackened" with a special lens paint to reduce the amber colour. These lights blend in very well with the car and are very unobtrusive.
Double filament bulbs are used in the front side lights.
The wiring loom ( 100% copy of the original type and cloth type wire cover colours ) was specially made incorporating the flashing lights by Vic Longden Octagon Manufacturing, 12 Lambertia Street Greenwood 6024 in Perth Western Australia phone 08 9448 4466. The original coil loom protectors were reused.
The simple 3 position control switch is fitted to the underdash fibre board cover directly above the gear stick so it is also unobtrusive.
Brighter quartz halogen globes, from Anthony Pearson's Classic and Vintage Bulbs, are fitted to the head lights and the rear D lights .
Regards,
Richard Townley
TC9507
Double filament bulbs are used in the front side lights.
The wiring loom ( 100% copy of the original type and cloth type wire cover colours ) was specially made incorporating the flashing lights by Vic Longden Octagon Manufacturing, 12 Lambertia Street Greenwood 6024 in Perth Western Australia phone 08 9448 4466. The original coil loom protectors were reused.
The simple 3 position control switch is fitted to the underdash fibre board cover directly above the gear stick so it is also unobtrusive.
Brighter quartz halogen globes, from Anthony Pearson's Classic and Vintage Bulbs, are fitted to the head lights and the rear D lights .
Regards,
Richard Townley
TC9507