It's on it's way.

[frenchblatter]

My "new" car is on it's way. First time it's seen daylight in 48 years.

See it HERE

Or, if you have an hour too look at a lot of pictures my step-granddaughter took look at: LINK

[dirk w dondorp]

you see what I see? no nothing!

[Duncan M]

Click see it "HERE" if not facebooking. Doesn't look as bad in daylight. Not at all. Those tail lights are sure ugly, but the folk-art luggage rack makes up for them, sort of. Wheels look quite salvageable, which I have found often means a lot of other things will be, also.
If the owner is so inclined, that is. Looks like an excellent project. I still think that is an EXU steering wheel. Have fun! here is 2 of those pics from frenchblatter's site:

[dirk w dondorp]

thanks, got it!
Interesting project!!
Good luck Norman.
Dirk

[jeffnewey]

Duncan's reference to EXU steering wheel is interesting......EXU cars were never sent to Australia (of course) but there are quite a few EXU steering wheels here! I have at least 3.
I suspect that Bluemel supplied many more wheels than EXU cars used.They seem to have been supplied as replacement "factory" wheels here when the black ones were damaged.
Jeff Newey
TC0489
Australia

[frenchblatter]

The wheel will be changed for a four spoke original design. The car was first registered in the UK .

Funny, I ordered a spoke spanner last night so I can refurb the wheels when (if) I'm waiting for parts. I'll remove one spoke at a time, clean down to bare metal and refit spoke. Carb kits are on the way. Other than enquiring about prices/services that's all I've done so far. I'll have it stripped to a bare chassis by the wekend, then the parts can be ordered.

[dirk w dondorp]

I bet you are going to have a hard time, loosening those rusty spokes!
As these are new availble, I would cut the spokes and replace them with new ones, which you do not have to chrome or paint, whatever you choose, etc!

[stephen stierman]

I might suggest that if the engine is free, you try to get it running and drive it around the block to see how the drive train seems. Just a thought prior to taking it apart............

[Duncan M]

Norman- I only broke about 4 spokes per wheel, while trying to get the nipples off wheels that had sat close to 60 years. After soaking in PBBlaster about a month, I carefully cleaned the threads (inside and out) on the oldies, one at a time, and applied a thin layer of the thick silver/grey thread dressing. I decided against heat. After truing and runout adjustments, etc. I sandblasted each wheel assembly down to metal and promptly repainted with a high quality multi part auto sealant/paint. The wheels are the only thing I have sandblasted, and it is highly recommended for complete and "trued" wire wheels. Of course, your way will work too. Have fun!

[Duncan M]

Norman-
That wire wheel article was right on this site. http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/wires.htm
The truing of wheel part is towards the bottom. The first part is all about cutting out the old spokes, then how to lace them, etc. I found the truing part helpful. My stand is different than his. It stands upright, the spindle/hub parallel to ground, so wheel upright when truing. But, I think you have at least a month of penetrant soaking before you will want such a device.

[frenchblatter]

Duncan, thanks for the article, Terry's is better than the one I have.

I'm going to bead blast the very rusty bits but I'm told they aren't that bad. Car will be here about 0930 in the morning and I will soak it all in muk-off and then jet wassh before putting it in the workshop (dirty cars not allowed in workshop)

The wheel refurb will be done when I'm stuck waiting for parts as will the rubbing down of the panels.

I'm going to strip to a bare chassis then overhaul each bit and refit it. So chassis down to bare metal and paint with POR15, then front axle and then rear axle after opening diff for examination. Then the brake back plates and the cylinders. The engine and gearbox will be stripped and rebuilt with whatever's needed (pistons, valves, guides at least) Probably need new bearings in the gearbox but maybe also synchro hubs.

I guess you get the picture. Nothing on a TC is complicated so if, when it's finished I have to, say, take the gearbox out again it's not a problem.

Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

[frenchblatter]

Stephen, I think I've answered your excellent suggestion. I may do that if It will start on a slave battery and BIG charger. If not then in for the major surgery.

[frenchblatter]

Stephen, I think I've answered your excellent suggestion. I may do that if It will start on a slave battery and BIG charger. If not then in for the major surgery.

[frenchblatter]

See, such a good suggestion I answered it twice.

What a pillock!

[Duncan M]

There will be a lot of gunk in the bottom of the oil/sump pan, near the pickup. When I drained the storage oil, it was clean and wonderful, as Dad had changed the oil shortly before he put it away. I tried squirting various cleaners into the sump pan through the drain plug, but it was so crusty only a spatula would scrape it out in the ned. Used solvent tank to clean oil pickup and screen. I was real careful with the pan removal, and managed to get it back on with no gasket or seal damage. I figure there was likely metal powder in the gunk, so happy to have gotten rid of all that prior to start-up. I like hearing your plans, Norm, as one day I will be doing the same. Don't forget to manually prime the oil pump before cranking. have fun-

[frenchblatter]

Duncan, I always prime and try and fill the filter before spinning it over on the starter to get some pressure.

The previous owner squirted EP90 down the plug holes all those years ago so who knows.

The priming bit reminds me of the time I was ops director at a Nissan dealership in the East End of London. There was (is) a large office block above the dealership and the old oil the fitters would pour down the drains would block the sump pump. So muggins here had to go down a hole to unblock it. Switch off the pump, undo the pick up pipe, draw it out and scrape the crap off the gauze. Refit pipe, prime pump and switch on. Easy. Only this time the caretaker was with me and he switched the pump on before I'd finished pouring water into the top of the pump. The smell took a week to get off and I had to send out for new clothes when I got back to my office on the ground floor.

Happy days ????