Body Piping

[Robert Brennan]

I'd appreciate advice on installing body piping. I've saved the old piping, for guidance, but think there might be room for improvement, especially regarding the running board. How should the ends be treated with respect to length (butt rear wing or end at running board) and should it be tucked under the cowl rubber or run past?
Thanks for your assistance.

Bob Brennan
S. Freeport, ME
TC 7794 EXU

[frenchblatter]

You were lucky, just taken mine off-in bits

[Robert Brennan]

No matter, Norman. You will do it better than original. Order the roll of body piping from Doug Pelton in your choice of color. I used stainless steel bolts from our local hardware store, which varied from 3" to 3 1/2" long (sorry, je ne sais pas metrics). After applying carnuba wax to the paintwork, I joined the running board to the body with the appropriately sized bolts, loosed fitted. I cut the piping with 2" (sorry) to spare on both ends - cowl and rear wing.

From under the car, I positioned the piping over the 3 s.s. bolts, removed the rear bolt and pushed the piping down to its desired location and penciled it's hole location using the running board to mark the exact spot. Then it is a simple matter of using a hole punch to perforate the vinyl, re-insert the bolt and progress similarly down the running board to the cowl.

As Richard Warren has suggested, the M. G. TD Restoration Manual by Horst Schach, is a big help in the details.

Bob Brennan
S. Freeport, ME

[frenchblatter]

Bob, I'm in France but a Brit, metric and imperial are OK for me, in fact 2" means a lot more the 2 cms.

I'm going to use the correct BSF Whitworth bolts and nuts and have a stock of them. I have a roll of body piping (from Moss-Europe). It's the interior I'm more concerned about. The Rexine covering at the back has dried out to the point of not only tearing but cracking like a thin cookie (OK, not a biscuit, but a cookie ). I can get the correct material from the UK but I'm not good with material covering. I did get taught when an apprentice but was more interested in the oily bits.

I'll get it sorted.

Right today is sunny so the chassis and axles will get sandblasted (outside), then the painting and rebuild can start.

ed to add that I've bought a copy of the TD rebuild book from the States for $51 plus $37 post. On Amazon UK it costs £125, $88 is £55 (about)