Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
Am going to attempt the replacement of the seal (using the suggested method of using two) on the lever arm of the PR6 dampers on my TC. Reading through the various online sources I note that pulling the lever arm of f is the recommended method supposedly using the notches on the lever arm -shaft end. Am I to assume that the lever arm and shaft come out in one piece as although I`ve filed away the the edges of the shaft which would obviously prevent the lever coming off the shaft, the notches are not adequate -or appear to be, to allow a Snap On puller to get the arm off the shaft. Even with a bit of heat. Or have I to just persevere. Hope someone can help. Trying to press the shaft out from under the "core plug" end will be difficult because of the position of the lever. Well certainly in my press.
- Franz Tenbrock
- Posts: 576
- Joined: Wed Jul 11, 2018 9:39 am
- Location: Waltrop Germany
Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
perhaps you can find here something ;-)
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... 68/page-18
today
i would take my press to get it out
easy and safe
easy to close the hole after rebuild
sorry my english#missing some words
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... 68/page-18
today
i would take my press to get it out
easy and safe
easy to close the hole after rebuild
sorry my english#missing some words
- Steve Simmons
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Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
I assume you've seen these two pages:
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax.htm
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax-2.htm
I've never intentionally removed the lever from the shaft. I believe they typically are removed together by pressing from the rear.
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax.htm
http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/luvax-2.htm
I've never intentionally removed the lever from the shaft. I believe they typically are removed together by pressing from the rear.
- stephen stierman
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- Location: worthington, ohio USA
Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
Follow the links that Steve has provided, the shaft and lever arm are pushed out together and typically can be done in stout vise, perhaps adding a bit of heat to the rocker arm where the shaft goes through. Use a punch on the shaft and rocker to mark for assembly. I have resealed all mine using the above directions.
Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
I rebuilt all 4 about 6 years ago. Should be no filing involved. I polished the shaft where it would be in contact with the two new lip seals. I replaced the "core plugs" with original type steel plugs from NAPA.
- frenchblatter
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Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
By the way, Jan, mine still leak. Not a lot but enough to refill each year.
Lynne & Norman Verona.
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Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
Just needed a bit more pressure. Crack and out it came. Norman where do they leak fron? Via the replacement seals?
Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
From all the information I have researched I note that no mention is made of the "tunnel" in the reservoir which is to my mind a pathway for fluid to lubricate the seal on the lever arm. On the first one I`ve worked on this was totally blocked but careful application of a 1 1/2 mm drill bit cleared it. I can only assume that if this is blocked that it will cause an early deterioration of the damper seal due to no lubrication. My concern is that if the damper is left insitu and an attempt to clear it on the car may lead to debris entering the valve chamber. Perhaps it`s something to add to a periodical check?
Re: Repair to GirlingPR6 damper
download/file.php?mode=view&id=2181
Forgot to add picture of "tunnel" location
Forgot to add picture of "tunnel" location