Where to mount a modified reservoir for brake master cylinder

[timberstone]

Many years of mulling over the prospects for changing the TC brake master cylinder reservoir mounting position, so that it could be checked and filled easier (therefore resembling some later "LBCs"), finally took me to a shop where such work might be done.
The first question was: where did I want the reservoir can mounted?
I had always thought to put it somewhere on the "firewall" (bulkhead, footplate) or elsewhere open for visibility in the engine compartment. However the shop thought it could go inside the tool box so that the reservoir can could be hidden from sight and "No one would know...." about the modification.

The position is the question for responses from the Forum postings.

The reservoir cans that are used for later Healys will work, because those could include the two (2) lines for recharge and balance of the fluid. There might also be other reservoir cans that work.
Do not think the lines leading from the master cylinder to the reservoir need to be wire coil bound - as are most of the other lines in the TC, but open to suggestions.
Also under consideration is to decrease the diameter of the master cylinder from 7/8" to 3/4" in order to decrease the amount of perceived pedal pressure. This may require more pedal travel to activate the brake drums, but currently the amount of pedal travel seems not to be an issue, since there is plenty of room in the footwell for the pedal to travel.
Have not noticed any difference due to change of fluid type from DOT 5 silicone back to DOT 3 (or 4). However, have noted distinct improvement in other performance characteristics of the brakes when the shoe linings were changed to "softer" types due to the ALFIN drum linings that are steel instead of cast iron.
Octagonally submitted,
BOXLEY (Robert and MGTC 0820)

[Steve Simmons]

I always considered the firewall to be the best place, somewhere around the side of the battery box. But I must admit I never thought of putting it inside the toolbox. I don't like that it would require drilling a hole, but it really is a brilliant idea to maintain the appearance of originality. That said, I think I've only had to top up my fluid once in the last 15 years, so maybe a remote reservoir isn't really necessary. But if I was going to do it, I would definitely consider that location. I would miss the storage space though, because I really pack that thing when I go on extended tours.

I've heard people talk about changing the bore diameter of the MC, but never found out if they worked out. While I personally love the feel of the TC brakes, it does seem like there may be room to make the change without running out of pedal travel. I would definitely prefer this to fitting a brake booster as some people have done on later T-Series and MGA.

Just a minor correction, you have your brake drums reversed. The stock drums were steel and the Alfin have cast iron linings.

[timberstone]

Yes, drilling a hole through the firewall (bulkhead, footplate) for the reservoir lines so that they go into the tool box makes me grit my teeth. But there may be a creative and clever way to do the routing.

Somewhere there are calculations for the amount of pressure difference in foot/ pounds or Newton/Joules that the diameter decrease of the master cylinder would make.

[frenchblatter]

When I rebuilt TC10178 I lined the metal cover with heat blanket material. The thinking is that the brake fluid may evaporate with heat from the exhaust. So far I've topped up once and it's been Ok since then. Car's done about 5000 miles since rebuild.

[Ray White]

I have mounted my remote reservoir in the corner of the battery box. I have taken the pipe down through the bottom of the box and secured it the bulkhead with clips attached to the long gearbox cover screws. It then goes under the floor and meets the master cylinder with a banjo fitting. The pipe is armoured..

[Ray White]

The period style brake fluid reservoir sited in the battery box. It actually uses one of the voltage regulator screws.

[Ray White]

There were a few stressful moments when drilling and tapping a thread into the lid of the new "bronze" master cylinder but it seems to have turned out O.K.

[Ray White]

[Steve Simmons]

Ray, where did you get the gully bronze MC? I have one with a bronze bore but I've never seen a bronze can. Beautiful job by the way.

[Tim Jackson]

Looks like the MC is from C&C Parts in the Netherlands, which makes high quality brake parts for T types; expensive but the best IMO

[Ray White]

Thank you for the compliment, Steve. I bought it from NTG; along with bronze wheel cylinders. Expensive, yes but nice quality. Having said that it started leaking but NTG (sorry I can't remember names) were more than happy to supply me with a free replacement seal kit which arrived the next day. They had never had one fail before and were quite shocked!

[Ray White]

I knew I only had one chance with the lid.

[Duncan M]

Bravo, Ray!

A.S. sells an identical looking MC. https://abingdonspares.com/products/master-cylinder-tc

[Ray White]

With respect to the original poster's question about where to site the reservoir, I chose to locate it in the battery box for a number of reasons. Firstly, I am less concerned about having an "original" looking engine compartment as having a brake fluid reservoir in a place that could endanger the bulkhead paintwork.!!!

The battery box will these days carry a much smaller battery than in the past so there seemed to be a lot of wasted space. I did consider the tool box but ruled it out because that is where I have my heater sited and a reservoir would mean the heater pipework would need be routed differently and be less discreet. The battery box is also closer to the engine compartment and a pipe through the bottom corner and neatly through an existing hole in the top of the foot ramp seemed the easiest route; especially as the right hand side gearbox tunnel screws protrude sufficiently to attach pipe clips.