Front cross tube removal

[Mark McCombs]

As my front frame cross tube has a ding in it, and I already have a spare, that is next on my list...

Are there any special considerations in removing it? Do you just remove the grease fitting bolts or do the front springs need to be supported?

I have not found a good exploded view, any insights appreciated.

Mark TC8126 EXU

[Steve Simmons]

You will likely have to spread the frame a little bit. The tube is keyed on both ends so once the bolts are out it will still be pretty solid in there unless the frame is tweaked in which case it could spring apart and the crossmember will come right out. To spread the frame, you can use a couple 2x4s and a bottle jack. It will need to spread maybe 1/2 in at most. The springs will just drop down into the frame tips. I don't think they can come out without disconnecting the rear. but you will definitely want the car supported by the frame, not by the axle. I placed the jack stands near the axle under the flat part of the frame. It wouldn't hurt to have light pressure on the axle just to make it easier to get the bolts out. I can post photos of the process later if it would help.

[Mark McCombs]

Thanks, Steve-

Great info, and pics would be excellent addition-

Mark
TC8126 EXU

[Steve Simmons]

Here are some photos that might help explain what you will encounter during cross member replacement.

[Mark McCombs]

Thanks, Steve-

Got it now and your pictures really show it all-Now I get how the recessed tube ends fit so flush against the receivers in the dumbirons.

That front cross tubes take the brunt of 70 years of bumps and chain pulling of non-running cars!

[jddevel]

Today I started to refit my front springs to the tube you mention Two things. One when lifting the basic chassis to carry out to treat with POR lifting via the tube IT CAME OFF!! hopefully it was just the chassis flexing which allowed this and not as Steve states that the chassis is weak!!!. Secondly in trying to fit the new anchor bolts - the old ones aren`t actually worn but as it`s apart decided to fit new, the new ones don`t fit. They appear when measured to be only marginally bigger and fail to screw in. Will have to resort to using the old ones which turn in perfectly and return the new to check what the problem is.

[Steve Simmons]

If the frame is bent, then it can spring out at the front. But all is not lost, the main thing is that it's straight when everything is bolted tight. If the car tracks straight then I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Do the bolts not fit the holes in the frame, or do they not fit the threads? It's possible there is paint build-up in the holes or grime in the threads. You can chase the threads as in my photo above to ensure they are clean and straight.

[jddevel]

Thanks Steve. Bolted together well using old anchor bolts. Actually without them in the cross member is a tight fit. I suspect (hope!!)it was using it to move the chassis that caused sufficient flex for one end to pop out. Regarding the new anchor bolts they definately are marginally to big. I`ve no calipers suitable and using a NON digital vernier there is definately a very slight difference. . Normally when fitting a bolt by turning it anti-clockwise there is a slight "click" to indicate the start of the thread.This doesn`t happen with the new ones. Until I discuss this with Octagen I`ll not be able to determine whether this is deliberate. That may possibly be the case to allow the chassis tube to be re-tapped if there is existing wear.