Changing radiator hose

[Debacosta]

Do you have to remove the radiator to replace the top hose?

[Steve Simmons]

Others may have different methods but here are two options:

A) Remove the elbow from the front of the cylinder head. It's a clumsy way of doing it, especially for those still using 2 studs / 2 bolts, but it can be done. Replace the elbow gasket upon reassembly. While the elbow is off, check for corrosion in the elbow and thermostat housing. If the elbow is aluminum, it will probably be heavily corroded. Clean before re-installation.

B) Loosen hose clamps and twist the hose to break it free from any corrosion. Remove the two nuts under the radiator. Remove the two screws connecting the radiator stays to the radiator and move the stays aside. Remove the two large bolts connecting the headlamp supports to the radiator. Lift the radiator up a couple inches and replace the hose, then drop it back down. Be careful with the paint on the apron.

You can buy a silicon hose which is flexible enough that it can be changed without removing anything. They are expensive, but easier to replace and put less strain on the connectors. Be sure to use an appropriate, high quality hose clamp with silicon hoses, as the normal cheap ones will cut into them.

[Duncan M]

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The original "locked in" design can be retained by planning ahead. The two studs that go into the top of the elbo piece can be installed using (Permatex 80078 type) anti seize thread lubricant to install the studs. When the need arises the original (thick) nut can be replaced by two (thin) jam nuts, and by locking the lower nut against the upper nut the studs can be unscrewed and removed.

Removing the 4 bolts holding on the elbo can be done, but getting them back in without cross threading can be a challenge with the new hose interfering in precise alignment. Once again, the anti seize should be used on those 4 bolts.

[Debacosta]

Thank you!

[Martin Johnson]

Hello: I'm definitely in the "remove the elbow" camp. The gasket under the elbow might not survive removal, so either buy or cut your own new one out of gasket stock. Clean all the threads for the bolts (and studs & nuts if applicable). With the elbow off, my order of reassembly is: top hose clamp loose-ish on the hose; slide the hose on the radiator port as far up as it will go; hold bottom hose clamp on hose, slide onto the loose elbow as far as it will go (some of the new hoses I find are a bit longer than they need to be. I trim mine a bit so there is less fighting. A test fit is not a bad idea...); because everything is loose, you have less of a fight on your hands with the elbow bolts (and nuts, if applicable)which benefit from anti-seize. Once the elbow is tightened, tighten the hose clamps. Speaking of clamps (or clips as some call them), my preference is the "Jubilee" type (solid band) versus the wire type, btw. Not only are they original, they (to me) look better. I'm glad you bought the TC. May it give you joy.

[Duncan M]

While Jubilee hose clamps are outstanding, and were installed at the factory on all sorts of British cars and bikes, I have never seen any convincing evidence they were installed by the factory on TC coolant lines.

The most interesting original factory clamps on a TC are the two different ones that go on the intake manifold. Not Jubilee and not the wire type.