Dynamo oiler

[jddevel]

Any one successfully replaced what I assume is a "felt pad" in the T series dynamo oiler. Nearly £40 seems an unecessarily high cost if all that needs replacing is the felt.

[Steve Simmons]

I used felt wick purchased from McMaster-Carr. Your local arts and crafts store may also have it. I believe the size was 1/4" and only cost a few dollars for enough to do a dozen generators.

[jddevel]

Thanks Steve, I`m sure I can locate something here in the UK. One question. Although I`ve removed the spring with its internal felt, there remains some in the dynamo housing. Is this just a continuation of the felt in the spring or has it some kind of "cap". Don`t want to just dig it out without a bit more knowledge.

[jddevel]

Have since now seen a new item which indicates it`s simply a continuation of what`s in the spring.

[Steve Simmons]

Yes, as you discovered the felt is just a single piece. You slip it up into the spring. Once removed, you should be able to see the back of the oilite bushing.

[jddevel]

What is the recommended modern oil to used in the dynamo oiler.

[jddevel]

Steve, I note your comment some years ago. "The grease recommended by the manual is not the same grease we use today on bearings and bushings. It melted at temperature and flowed through the oilite bushing, lubricating the rotating parts. Today's greases will not melt and therefore will not penetrate the bushing or lubricate the shaft. I use a heavy oil and lubricate the felt pad every now and then to simulate the original lubricant specification."
Regarding the tacho gearing. What is tha lubricated with please?

[jddevel]

Is there any value in using PTFE Lubricant Grease which can I assume also be used in the tacho gearbox.
?

[Duncan M]

The general suggestion for greasing the tach and speedo inner cables is white lithium grease. So, I believe I also used it in the tach gearbox. For the wick I am using 140W gear oil. To lubricate the actual inner working (clock) mechanism of the Chronometric tach and speedo I use only the finest non-synthetic clock oil.

[Steve Simmons]

There will be considerable debate on modern equivalent lubricants, although you can still buy low melting point greases if you shop around enough. I use 600W oil in the generator bush and tach drive box. I don't believe the tach box ever called for grease, and since it's riveted together there is no way to clean out the old grease and renew without drilling the rivets. Oil will slowly leak out the bottom and leave any bits of worn metal down low where they will do less harm. If your tach box is already drilled and reassembled with screws and nuts then grease is probably a superior lubricant, although a bit more work to clean.

[Duncan M]

Good point Steve-
I found the only way to re-assemble the tach drive gearbox was to use appropraitely sized nut and bolt with loctite. Reason not to rivet is because if the two halves of the case are too tight, the gears will not turn. Using a bolt and nut allows just the right amount of tight.

[jddevel]

Thank you Steve and Duncan. Sound advice. Cheers Jan