MG TA1932 in Germany - Blog - all problems and ...

[Franz Tenbrock]

I took the TA today for the last ride of the year.
the weather was dry but cold
about 5° degrees
20 km around the city
it was beautiful and some people waved and gave the thumbs up
i hope i can ride the cars more next year than this year
I hope Corona will come to an end this winter
got the milk vaccination on friday
but there are many people without vaccination

the YA is ready for a ride too, so i have one more MG to drive around on sunny dry winter days

[Franz Tenbrock]

my TA got a new part
designed with freecad and printed with brass pla

here the story
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... t.4435691/

nearly ready
have to grind and polish it
and find a solution to fix it without a hole in my wooden flap

[Franz Tenbrock]

here i will write more
the lenth of the wires i will post when i am ready or someone gives me some information
today i searched the web for pictures of a good wiring

and i found one here in mg-tabc
confused
read here
https://www.mg-tabc.org/library/mgtatb- ... rcuits.pdf
different colors than my YA and later TC
difficult to buy
i will have many different features on the dashboard so i decided to go with the later colors


https://www.mg-tabc.org/library/dash-wiring.htm
and fhis picture
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-an ... 664/page-2
the last picture i took to see where the wire will go to
i made some notes to the picture ;-) i hope all is correct

then i searched the web where i can buy the wires
found two supplieres having most of the colors i need

now i make a excel sheet with all information i need

the question in the moment
should i take the original thickness of the wires ?
i don t need it because i will have relays to switch, only the ammeter will get high power or i will take a wiring for the ammeter with shunt (don t know how i can do it in the moment, just read it )
but with the original gauge not possible ?!

with the original thickness of the wires it looks more original but my counter and speedo is replica ;-( so not original

the thinner wires , i have much more place to work with

so step by step i will find a good solution

i need a hazzard light switch, if i make my own solution i only need one wire for the switch

also i need direction light switch, for my own solution 3 wires, 1 power, 1 left 1 right

green = power on ignition also for the screen wiper
green/red for right direction light
green/white for left direction light

control light for hazzard light green/ ..?black
control light for direction light green/ ?purpel

control light for beam light Blue/?yellow

this colours i can buy ;-)

this should be all ?!!!

after i have finished it you should see what function has this wire....

[Franz Tenbrock]

found this here now
https://ttypes.org/the-resurrection-of-ta0844-part-7/
good chart to see what amps are necessary probably

[Franz Tenbrock]

also found this here, with a hybrid TA wiring, but it is difficult to buy the correct colored wires
thick wire in white purple ;-( to the ammeter and yellow black same thickness

https://ttypes.org/hybrid-wiring-scheme-for-an-mg-ta/

also
i know the color schema from TC and YA not from TA
so difficult for me if i have aproblem some day

[Franz Tenbrock]

https://intofpv.com/t-what-awg-wires-to-use

here are information for AWG wires

[Franz Tenbrock]

i had a box in the cellar, got from the owner before
and what i found there, a really old book, the original ?

found a mistake in the hybrid wiring diagram posted here
https://ttypes.org/hybrid-wiring-scheme-for-an-mg-ta/
there is a solenoid starter so the yellow black wire should be before this switch

also i don t understand the old colour scheme

to ammeter:
yellow black is hot
also from ammeter to---
white purple also hot

the new lucas scheme is
to ammeter
brown hot
and from ammeter to---
brown white

so brown always hot

some more done ;-)
the wires for the headlamp is ???
both sides different headlamps, nearside and offside is different and the colors ;-(
funny
When the Dipper Switch is set to D
(dip), then the circuit is broken and the Right-Hand headlight is turns off.

so it is no beam light as we know today, one light stops shining and the other one ??
so take blue for driving light and red black for high beam light

[Franz Tenbrock]

got a good old wiring diagram from TA with CJR3
to read it better i colored it with the original colors
took me some time

but

this way it is much easier to read
maybe a help for some others

have added the colors of the wires and the thickness, not perfect at the moment, need to check the performance of light and so on

i use relays so i can use thin wires behind the dashboard, easier to use

look to the pdf there you can read all, just learning to use profcad

i use a special tool from kabel-schmidt.de
warnblinkschalter 12V
you will find a wiring diagram there
with this box you can use normal on-off and on-off-on switches
you don t neet special hazzard light switches, which i don t like from design
i have print a oringal like knob so i can use modern led switches, and you will not see the difference to the original knob when you look in the car

[Franz Tenbrock]

the last wiring diagram was an original only colored with paint
this one here is a self designed wiring diagram with some changes
using a dynamator so i do not need a regulator
My Cjr3 fake case will take the relays with integrated fuses

i do not need the fog light switch
i do not need the dashlight switch because i will switch it on with main light

i will take a push switch for the hazzard light with led control light inside
i will take a on off on turn switch with integrated led for direction light
i will use a modern hazzard light boc from kabelschmid.de, this box is reall small and i can use led without problems

i will use braided wirse with correct color for TA

today i have learned to make a professional like wiring diagram with proficad
here the result

if someone find a mistake please write it

also i have made an excel sheet with all wires i need and where i can buy it

[Franz Tenbrock]

today i start working on the TA
first step was get off the old dashboard
i have to cut some old wires away
doesn t matter
chaos behind ;-)
will be different when i am ready

today i started working on the TA
the first step was to remove the old dashboard
i have to cut away some old wires
does nothing
chaos behind ;-)
will be different when i am done

will post pictures of the situation in the car
i have to prepare the new dashboard i made last summer
with my hand mill and a special cutter i was able to run along the edge of the old one and everything was ready to go
that was done quickly
then I cleaned and polished the instruments a bit, more later but enough for now
the reading map light now has a blue LED as high beam indicator light also it willl be used as amap reading light

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hello
the third hole from the right is 22mm, the ignition light I have is for a 19mm hole
so i go to my basement and look around
i found a part for the plumbing which seems to be good for a function change
i took my lathe and now i have a new bezel made of brass
with my house plating system i took some nickel liquid and then some chrome
it is always a little darker than the old parts but you can see that only at second glance
also i have done the foot of the map reading light both sides

it cost me nothing
now i will buy a black switch with red led inside for hazzard light

in the moment there is a chrom switch inside, black will be much better
perhaps i find a 16mm hazzard light switch
i like it

[Franz Tenbrock]

my tacho got a clock yesterday not ready, just for a first look, sprayed with the correct colour
also got the red led hazzard light switch
in silver not ok so i took a pencil and made it red, perhaps a liitle bit black later ???
with my lathe i had to prepare it so it fit the self made bezel

[Franz Tenbrock]

it was too much red so i took a black pencil and like this it is much better for the old style
perhaps i have to take some clear coat to prefent it
but i hope that i have not to use it often
next step will be printing the clear old style knob for direction light left side from the hazzard switch
you between bezel and knob there is the green control light this i will change a little bit

[Franz Tenbrock]

this speedo pointer looks ;-(
with freecad i have designed an oringinal like hand
and at the moment I print it
have already printed some weeks with my Photon, I hope it works out with the first print run
it is always exciting until you have the right settings
then I have the transparent button for the turn signal again something reworked and print the now in the same run
when they design a replica speedo why such a pointer ?ß grrrr

the new clock in my tacho is not perfect, will find an other one and make it better

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hifirst handle printed
don t know why, but the slicer makes it smaler then it should be have to print it in 107%
then it should be good
the quality is good
here the first print
but it is possible
next print it will be ok
the knob for the direction light is a little bit to small too
next print i hope it is perfect

the second hands print was perfect
the knob had a problem with fixing on the plate, a special problem with resin printers

[Franz Tenbrock]

Hi
i love my printer,
sometimes it is not ok with the first print
but the second is perfect now
i took a black permanent pencil to make it black
works perfect, easyer then to spray it
both pointers are black now
and looks identical

if someone with a repro speedo wants one ;-)

step by step...
have to wait now for the wires i have orderd yesterday

[Franz Tenbrock]

and here my self printed button for the light switch
looks like original, but if you turn it around, you can see the difference
a really bright green control light for the indicator light
and also my new switch for the warning light
both better than I had hoped
so i don't need any additional switches under the dashboard
i don't like them in an old car

the old middle dashboard part painted in bronce is now clean and the chrome edge is fine again
will paint the mittle black now and i will take the old one which was part of the car

[Franz Tenbrock]

i have written that the right map reading light will get two function
one is beam control light in blue, i need it here in Germany
and the normal reading light
i took of the interior of the reading light, the middle point only
and now i have 4 wires coming out at the base
i think you can see it in the pictures
so again technik from today in the case from yesterday and all interchangeble
can change to the old function in one or two minutes

[Franz Tenbrock]

the first day of the new year
driven with the YA a little bit
it is 14 degrees warm outside, the Ya outside on the street
place to do something in the garage
took the TA outside to turnn the direction
most work on the new electric will be on the left side off the car, like this now i have much more place to do it
after two hours of work the most old wires are off the car
it was good that i have done it. some wires are cut off in the middle of the loom some other much too long
perhaps i will change the function of the sidelights, in the moment only for direction light, better for sidelight and direction light in one position.

I'm thinking now how I lay the cable
down along the frame is quite a lot of oil and dirt
and you can reach it very bad there
, the cable length is also longer.
ev it is better to go along the support rod of the radiator to the front, each a tree for left and one for right
the car will still have positive earth because the dynamator is positive, the relays with fuses for Light and high beam also horn fit very well in my printed CJR3 housing, so you can easily get to it, can easily change the fuse and the old switches on the dashboard are only loaded with low currents

[Franz Tenbrock]

outside it is raining
so some time to think about the wiring

in the morning i took off my printed cjr3 case
looking in the web for parts

found some micro relais for motorbike, they are a little bit smaller then the relays for cars.
i will get 5 or 6 in the regulator position of my printed cjr3

for:
1. headlight
2. beam light
3. horn ( + beaklight ?? )
4. ignition light relay for new dynamator
5. adon ( sidelight, breaklight ... )


in the fuse area i will have a part like this here
HELLA 8JD 002 294-201 Sicherungsdose - 4-polig - 8A - schwarz - Stecker: Schraubkontakt

a heavy duty fuse 40 amp for the new dynamator perhaps like this here
Remco 2 x Leistungssicherung Streifensicherung Midi rot 50A 58V inkl. Halter

i have made a little redisgn of the cjr3, in the past i had a regulator in it, and this regulator need 8mm more space
now it is different, i need more place in the fuse area, now the case has the real original dimesion.

the new dynamtor is in position and the old one stored in the cellar

also i have searched for led headlights with the socket i need, found them positiv ground

i will change to 2 function 1130 sidelights,. there i have to make a new base, done it for my YA, so no problem

i have learned so much with freecad that it is possible now for me to check the position of the parts i need, perfect ;-)